As prolific as the Indigenous art scene is here, the city has a single Indigenous restaurant: Salmon n’ Bannock. Even without that distinction it’s highly recommended. Owner Inez Cook is a Nuxalk Nation member with a moving personal story of reunification who in a small dining room serves, yes, fantastic salmon and bannock, per her culture’s traditions, but also scrumptious dishes such as toasted bannock with sautéed mushrooms, bison gravy, sage blueberries, and melty brie. If you run out of time, snag an elk burger at her Vancouver International Airport Salmon n’ Bannock On The Fly.
Take an active approach to experiencing First Nations culture on a guided interpretive paddle in a fanciful 35-foot ocean canoe—complete with Coast Salish songs—through ancient villages of the Burrard Inlet in North Vancouver with Takaya Tours, owned and operated by the Tsleil-Waututh Nation. Alternatively, hop in one of Gulf Island Seaplanes’ De Havilland Beaver model for a scenic flight ranging from 20 minutes over the city to a 45-minute trip stretching up to snowcapped mountains, the Strait of Georgia and all the way to Squamish. The company owned by Alison Evans of the Hagwilget Nation operates from April to October out of Vancouver Harbour, offering visitors the chance to see just how much of Greater Vancouver is still wild space, carpeted in plush green forests and bulging with mountain peaks.
Getting there
Fly into Vancouver International Airport and, for the most flexibility, rent a car with an airport provider or go the Turo route, as we did, having our host drop his SUV to us directly at Fairmont Hotel Vancouver. Uber operates prolifically and there are shuttle buses or private charter car services available to Whistler, but without your own wheels it’s harder to explore and pull over for photo ops such as at Tantalus Lookout, where illustrated signage explains the Sk̲wx̲w7úmesh story of the mountain range’s formation.
Where to stay in Whistler and beyond
Oh the stories the walls of Rosewood Hotel Georgia could tell if they could talk—of guests from Elvis and The Rolling Stones to Katharine Hepburn and John Wayne. The recent revamp of this 156-room and -suite historical favorite cranked the glam factor up so high it’s almost too perfect, all deep, dark wood and glimmering crystal chandeliers in the lobby and 1927 Lounge (where the gin-based, nutmeg-dusted Hotel Georgia is a can’t-miss), sumptuous-chic Arch Digest vibes in the guest rooms, and radiant light with original moldings and new Indigenous artworks by Sonny Assu in the event spaces.
To tread farther afield, hop a seaplane in Whistler or Vancouver headed for decidedly remote Desolation Sound, where Klahoose Nation–owned Klahoose Wilderness Resort operates from May to October each year. The rustic retreat of seven rooms and cedar cabins is a place to disconnect from the grind and immerse in jaw-dropping boat rides through deep blue waters beloved by humpback whales, wait patiently to spy on grizzly bears in their native habitat on traditional First Nations territory, gain cultural insights from the First Nations and Indigenous staff, and try out paddle carving, cedar weaving, and drumming.
When to visit Vancouver and Whistler for Indigenous experiences
Wintertime in the Sea to Sky Corridor—especially the mountainous reaches of it—makes a compelling case for ski and snowboard aficionados, who can find quite a few ways to engage with First Nations individuals, customs, arts, and language. After the snow melts away, however, there are even more possibilities. Talaysay Tours’ Whistler offerings, for example, are only available in spring and summer, due to weather. Beginning in mid-June through August, Whistler Blackcomb’s Mountain Top Summer Feast is a culinary survey occurring every Friday, Saturday and Sunday at Roundhouse Lodge, including an Indigenous food station featuring cedar plank salmon, among other iconic dishes. For two weeks every August, the Squamish Arts Festival brings together a lineup of live music, workshops, and grand finale Sp’awk’us Feather Shakedown with cultural dance and Squamish canoe protocol.
