Where to Eat and Drink on Croatia’s Hvar Island

Visitors to Hvar, Croatia, typically arrive by water — whether by cruise ship, ferry, sailboat, or yacht — and all are greeted by the same spectacular sight: a hillside stacked with stone houses topped with terracotta-tiled roofs, tumbling down toward the sparkling port of Hvar Town. While this picturesque village boasts the island’s highest concentration of restaurants, bars, and nightlife, its appeal extends far beyond the waterfront. Inland, vineyards, olive groves, and tiny villages reveal a slower, soulful side.

Feed on fabulous fish

Another celeb magnet, Gariful on the Hvar Town waterfront sells glistening whole fish and seafood plucked each day off the island’s shores. Expect to pay a premium for the island-chic experience, as each table has prime views of the world’s finest collection of yachts come summer. However, the restaurant easily meets high expectations, so if your budget allows, consider ordering the Adriatic lobster, creamy Dalmatian oysters, and scampi buzara, a Croatian specialty of shrimp in a white wine, garlic, and tomato sauce.

Take a water taxi to dinner

Just before sunset, in-the-know travelers head to the Hvar Town waterfront to hire a 10-minute water taxi to Zori Restaurant. On the beach of Palmižana Island, this picturesque spot exudes casual celebrity vibes without pretense. Pick from the excellent selection of seafood and Mediterranean starters before mining the Croatia-rich wine list. If you’ve got the stamina, pop over to Laganini Hvar Restaurant & Bar, a half-century-strong institution, to see what A-listers are tossing back in the lounge bar.

Visit a winery or two

While most visitors remain huddled along the waterfront with the mega-yachts, wine lovers know to rent a car and explore wineries. Head southeast toward Zlatan Otok, one of the country’s best-known brands for its Pošip, Crljenak, and Plavac Mali. In a beautiful setting at the base of a dramatic mountain slope that falls into the sea, the winery features a solid seafood restaurant. Boaters tie up in the tiny fishing village of Sveta Nedjelja to feast on platters of shellfish paired with white wines. Don’t miss a visit to the underwater cellar. After lunch, carry on down the coast to visit Andro Tomić’s winery in Jelsa. Sample barrel-aged Plavac Mali with postcard views.

Tuck into traditional fare

Escape Hvar Town’s polished waterfront of sleek yachts and high-end restaurants, and duck up a cobbled alley to grab a table at Tavern Menego. The family-run restaurant is the kind of old-world, no-frills dining set inside a centuries-old stone house that reminds you exactly why you came to Croatia. Sit beneath wooden beams while sipping on house wine from a jug and eat the kind of hearty Dalmatian food locals love. Order the crumbly, hard cheese from Pag Island, followed by smoked ham that will give prosciutto a run for its money, finishing with a platter of shrimp with gnocchi.

Try a modern take on Croatian cuisine

Wander away from the harbor and up the city’s worn-stone staircases to discover delightful alleys filled with restaurants and bars. Many factions built Hvar Town across centuries, so it’s easy to feel like you’ve stepped back in time when lingering in these passages. Black Pepper, a small restaurant run by friends, occupies a sliver of such an alley. Tables, lit by warm sconces and framed in bouganvillea, spill out onto the steps. The vibe is relaxed yet thoughtful, with a concise menu of classics given a modern polish by the chef. Highlights include grilled octopus, black truffle ravioli, lamb gnocchi, and tuna steaks. It boasts a solid Croatian wine list and staff who can help make suggestions.

Lose the crowds to dine with views

Alavia Soulfood is situated in Velo Grablje, a small village overlooking Hvar’s coast. The venue, set on a stone terrace shaded by olive trees, offers sweeping views of the sea. Dining alfresco feels low-key festive, like eating at someone’s summer villa where the host knows how to cook. The menu spans black risotto with cuttlefish ink, grilled octopus with candied citrus, and a ‘gregada’ of monkfish, scampi, and mussels that tastes of the sea. To drink, try a craft beer, cocktail, or glass of Champagne Lanson, their partner brand. It’s a drive from town, but it’s worth it for the views. The website provides taxi information if you’re without a car – which is probably best after a few glasses of bubbles.

Close the night with cocktails

The island’s restaurant and wine industry pros head to Vintage Bar Hvar when they’ve got a night off in Hvar Town. It’s tucked down a stone alley where low-slung wooden tables and stools fill the cobbled street. Despite the island’s popularity in summer, the bar has a relaxed vibe, perfect for ending the night with a glass of Pošip or a creative cocktail like a ‘Naked’ Milk Punch Negroni. If you’re still up for nibbles, you can choose from Asian street food-inspired bites, Mediterranean dips, and even burgers.