This Luxury Caribbean Hotel Has More Pools Than Guest Suites—and It Just Got a Stunning Refresh

Before I visited St. Barts for the first time this fall, I wondered if there was any way the French Caribbean island could live up to its glitzy reputation. Of course, I’d always heard that the island’s intoxicating mix of fabulous luxury resorts, high-end shopping and dining, and truly stunning natural scenery make it worth the trek—but I wanted to see for myself.  

As we touched down on the precariously short runway, red-roofed villas perched on hillsides leading down to turquoise waters came into view. Over the next several days, I fell in love with this island that feels as if a piece of Côte d’Azur had been plopped down in the Caribbean Sea. My home base was the secluded Hotel Le Toiny, nestled in the hills overlooking the ocean on the eastern side of the island. With just 22 villa-style suites—each with a private pool and terrace—the luxe hotel feels like an intimate escape from the island’s see-and-be-seen bustle. When I wasn’t taking a dip in my suite’s private pool (which I did at least twice a day, every day) or exploring, I was down at the exclusive Le Toiny Beach Club. The hotel’s beach club, with loungers shaded by palapa umbrellas and a shoreline fringed with palm trees, feels like a French Polynesian getaway, thanks to its Mediterranean flair and tropical atmosphere. 

During its recent off-season closure, the hotel refreshed some guest rooms and common areas, including the main restaurant, La Table, which now has a new globally-inspired menu. St. Barts’ only Relais & Châteaux property, Hotel Le Toiny is an ideal spot for visitors who want their slice of Caribbean paradise with all the amenities and five-star service of a luxury hotel.

We’ve reviewed those amenities, refreshed suites, and restaurants to help you decide if Hotel Le Toiny is right for your next trip to St. Barts. 

The Rooms

With just 22 villa-style suites, Le Toiny offers an enviable sense of seclusion. Each unit has over 1,000 square feet of space, private pools (they’re much larger than the typical plunge pool you might find attached to a standard hotel suite), and a terrace with stunning views of the island and ocean. One Junior Suite, 13 Signature Suites, seven Spirit Suites, and one two-bedroom Villa Suite offer a variety of configurations to choose from, all with coastal-chic décor in neutral tones. There are also two wheelchair-accessible rooms at the hotel. 

I stayed in a Signature Suite, which had a living area with a couch and chairs, a TV, a desk area, and a kitchenette tucked inside a cabinet with a Nespresso machine and well-stocked minibar (snacks and nonalcoholic drinks are complimentary, alcohol costs extra). The bathroom featured both a deep soaking tub and a shower, and the bed was very comfortable, with a built-in TV at its foot that can be tucked away with the push of a button. It was nice to enjoy beautiful views from the floor-to-ceiling windows while I was still tucked in. Of course, the star of the show here is the outdoor living area, with two loungers plus additional tables and chairs surrounding the large private pool looking out over lush foliage and the ocean below. I spent nearly every evening enjoying the sunset over the nearby hills from my pool, and I couldn’t have been happier. Most rooms are ideal for couples, though the Villa Suite has two bedrooms and two bathrooms, so it’s better for a (slightly) larger group or family. 

Food and Drink 

Chef Eric Desbordes helms Le Toiny’s two restaurants, La Table and the Beach Club. La Table, located in the main building near the lobby, bar, and pool, is the hotel’s breakfast, lunch, and dinner restaurant, serving globally inspired dishes. I had the chance to eat my way through nearly the entire menu—consisting primarily of sharable small plates with Asian, Latin American, and European influences—and there wasn’t a dish that missed. Highlights included the lobster fritters in a ponzu sauce, yellowfin tuna tostadas, and salmon crispy rice (but if you’re not a seafood lover, don’t worry—the chicken skewers and steak were also delicious). And beyond the tasty dishes, the open-air restaurant has a breezy but buzzy atmosphere, thanks to ocean views and a live DJ.

The Beach Club’s menu ranges from classic poolside eats (think: fish burgers and lobster salads) to elevated Mediterranean dishes. The Dorade Royale, a stunning piece of sea bream in a pool of delicate escabeche sauce, almost felt too refined to eat with my toes in the sand; nonetheless, every bite here was delicious and fresh, too. The Beach Club also hosts the Beach Extravaganza on Thursdays throughout the season, with a smaller menu featuring seafood, steak, pasta, and more. 

There is a bar down at The Beach Club (and food and beverage service in case you don’t want to leave your lounger by the pool or on the sand) and another by Le Table, with a number of specialty cocktails along with beer and wine. 

Experiences and Amenities 

Beyond the stunning rooms with personal pools and the larger pool at the main building, The Beach Club is Le Toiny’s best amenity. Your journey to The Beach Club starts at the lobby, where you’ll board a Jeep to make the Journey down to the ocean. Tucked away on a quiet beach known for its great surf break, the club feels like a tropical paradise lined with palm trees and thatch umbrellas. There’s soft golden sand, clear ocean, and another pool for guests who’d rather take a dip surrounded by a couple of historic structures (one is even a massage cottage now). Here, you can also find the Surf Shack, where you can book a lesson to ride the waves, or The Boutique, where you can find resort wear and Le Toiny-branded merchandise. And if you’re the type of person who likes to keep up with their fitness routine even while on vacation, the all-wooden gym has cardio machines, weights, and more. 

Family-friendly Offerings 

While Le Toiny has a decidedly romantic vibe that makes it ideal for a couples’ escape, I saw a few kids having a great time at The Beach Club during my visit. Rooms here are really best for a party of two, but Le Toiny also has a selection of large villas (not within the resort property) for groups that need a little more space to spread out. 

The Location

Hotel Le Toiny is located on Anse Toiny on the eastern end of St. Barts. Thankfully, St. Barts is a pretty small island, so it doesn’t take long to drive to other towns for restaurants, shops, and beach clubs, but you need to either rent a car, arrange a private driver, or use cabs to get around. The hotel is about a 15-minute drive from Gustaf III Airport (SBH), the island’s main airport, and flight options are fairly limited due to the restrictions of the short runway. Typically, you’ll end up flying a major airline to St. Martin, where you can hop on a Winair flight to St. Barts, or to San Juan, Puerto Rico, where you can take a Tradewind Aviation flight to the island. I flew Tradewind, which offers private and scheduled charter flights to St. Barts throughout the season. I’ve flown Tradewind a couple of times, and I always appreciated the streamlined airport experience, private lounge stocked with snacks and drinks, and overall easy flight experience. 

How to Get the Most Value Out of Your Stay

St. Barts is, first and foremost, a luxury destination, and hotel rates across the island reflect that. Rates at Le Toiny start at 950 euros (about $988 USD) a night for the Junior Suite. Be sure to check the offers available on the website before you book; right now, you can get your fifth night free. Hotel Le Toiny is also a part of American Express’s Fine Hotels + Resorts portfolio. For extra fun perks like an early 12 p.m. check-in and a room upgrade on arrival (when available), book your stay through the American Express travel portal.