This Little-Known Texas Ghost Town Is the Perfect Place to Stargaze and Explore One of the Country’s Most Underrated National Parks

Thanks to Hollywood magic, when most people think of Texas, they might imagine harsh desert landscapes, craggy mountaintops, and the occasional tumbleweed rolling by. Needless to say, most of the Lone Star State doesn’t look like that. But there is one area of the state that looks as if it were plucked straight from a spaghetti Western: Far West Texas. And nowhere is that cowboy spirit more apparent and alive than in the small town of Terlingua.

This former mining hub of just 154 people is sandwiched between the vast expanses of Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park. At the turn of the 20th century, cinnabar ore (which is used to create liquid mercury, once an important resource for manufacturing firearms) was discovered in the area, and the town’s population boomed. When the mercury market crashed shortly after the end of World War II, the mining company abandoned Terlingua, and it became a ghost town.

However, that wouldn’t be the end of Terlingua. In 1967, the annual Great Chili Confrontation (now known as the Original Terlingua Chili Cook Off) was founded here, attracting chili heads from around the state and quickly earning the town the title of the “Chili Capitol of the World” from the Chili Appreciation Society. And thanks to its proximity to the more than 800,000 acres of Big Bend National Park, Terlingua is a popular basecamp for outdoor enthusiasts, who flock to the area to raft the Rio Grande, hike challenging desert terrain, and experience some of the darkest skies in the country.

Once overshadowed by its more well-known West Texas neighbors of Marfa, Marathon, and Alpine, Terlingua is now abuzz with visitors who come to experience its unique hotels, kitschy bars, and Old West charm.

Read on for the best things to do, see, and eat in Terlingua.

Best Hotels

The Summit at Big Bend

This hotel is about 20 minutes outside of town but is well worth the drive. The Summit at Big Bend offers one of the most unique stays in the area, with cave-like hotel rooms carved into the side of Tres Cuevas Mountain. There are modern furnishings and amenities in each space, and large glass front doors let in all the hues and colors of those brilliant West Texas sunsets and sunrises. The Summit is the only cave hotel in Texas, and there are stargazing domes and two casitas on site, too. 

Willow House

Located six miles from Big Bend National Park is Willow House. Here, you’ll find 12 casitas set on 250 acres of private land. Each casita has minimalist, desert-inspired design as well as unobstructed views of the Chisos. The communal Main House has a fully equipped gourmet kitchen, and fun amenities include a large swing bed, yoga deck, pool, fire pit area, Argentinian-style grill, and outdoor showers. 

Big Bend Holiday Hotel

Big Bend Holiday Hotel has restored all its rooms with rustic flair, complete with serape curtains and custom tile work. Conveniently located in Terlingua Ghost town, this hotel features casitas with nicely sized porches, perfect for lounging on after a long day of exploring. For those who are brave enough, there’s also the option to stay in the (possibly) haunted Perry Mansion building, which was recently restored after sitting vacant for nearly a century. The property was originally constructed in 1906 for Howard Everett Perry, the owner of the Chisos Mining Company, and today, it has numerous spacious rooms to hang your hat in, as well as a resident phantom.

La Posada Milagro Guesthouse

Southwestern-inspired design unfolds at La Posada Milagro Guesthouse, which has just six guest rooms with fun details like stucco walls, straw and wood-beam ceilings, and rock fireplaces. There’s an on-site coffee shop and taqueria, plus fire pits, an outdoor kitchen, and tiered terraces for enjoying sweeping views of the Chisos Mountains. 

Ocotillos Village

For a more rustic (yet still chic) experience, consider a stay at Ocotillos Village, with its wooden A-frames and camp sites. The A-frame accommodations have air conditioning and heat, a mini fridge, a coffee maker, a queen bed, and a glass roof for stargazing. Shower facilities and fire pits are also available on-site.

Things to Do

Hang out on “The Porch.” 

Originally established as a movie theater in the 1930s, the Starlight Theatre is now a hub for travelers and locals alike who are looking for a good meal, drinks, and live entertainment. At one point in time, a storm blew the roof off the theater, and the West Texas skies served as the building’s ceiling for decades—hence its name, the “Starlight Theatre.”

These days, the roof is fixed, and the theatre is a bustling hotspot. Though there are ample seats inside where you can listen to live music, locals like to hang out on the porch and enjoy a drink with the sunset or have an impromptu string pickin’ party. Menu items here include Western-inspired fare such as chicken-fried antelope strips, brisket queso, steaks, burgers, and Terlingua’s famous chili. Next door, the Terlingua Trading Company sells gifts such as books, coffee mugs, postcards, and eclectic tchotchkes—it’s the perfect place to pop in for a last-minute souvenir. 

Tour the Terlingua Cemetery. 

Needless to say, mining is a dangerous business, and Terlingua has seen its fair share of fatal accidents and tragedies—the community was also hit hard by the Spanish Flu in 1918. As strange as it might seem, one of the most interesting landmarks in town is the Terlingua Cemetery. Here, you’ll find simple crosses, stonework, and grottoes memorializing former residents, all framed by views of the Chisos Mountains and the Sierra del Carmen. It’s one of the most photographed cemeteries in Texas, even though it’s just over one acre in size. And every year on Dia de los Muertos, the cemetery is decorated with traditional candles, colorful flowers, and paper streamers to honor the dead. Aim to grab your camera at sunset, when gravesites turn a golden color with the fading light.

Get outside and explore.

Clocking in at more than 800,000 acres, Big Bend National Park is the largest park in Texas and is known for its desert canyons, mountains, and a bevy of unique flora and fauna. In fact, Big Bend has more kinds of birds, butterflies, bats, scorpions, and ants, than any other national park in the U.S. And thanks to its remote location—its more than 200 miles from Midland International Air & Space Port (MAF)—Big Bend is one of the least visited national parks in the country. So, if you’re looking to catch some peace and quiet, this is the place to go.

Adventure seekers will find more than enough to do within Big Bend. At Boquillas Crossing, visitors can row across the Rio Grande into Mexico to spend a few hours in the small village of Boquillas del Carmen. Or, they can hike the Boquillas Canyon Trail and walk along the river to a limestone gorge that splits the Sierra del Carmen. Take a soak at the Historic Hot Springs District, which can be accessed via a short hike after driving down Hot Springs Road. Pose for a photo at Balanced Rock, located on the Grapevine Hills Trail. For something more low-key, drive through the 30-mile Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, which has vistas of Mule Ears Overlook. Big Bend has the least amount of light pollution of any other national park unit in the lower 48 states, so star parties and moonlit walks are a regular part of the park’s programming. (Note: As of May 1, 2025, the popular Chisos Basin area of the park will be closed for two years to complete improvement projects.)

For even more outdoor thrills, head to Big Bend Ranch State Park, which has 300,000 rugged acres ripe for exploring—it’s even less developed than its national park cousin, with dirt roads. However, it has two of the only dog-friendly trails in the area, Closed Canyon and the Hoodoos. There are also 238 miles of multi-use trails (for hiking, biking, and horseback riding) and 70 miles of unmaintained dirt roads for high-clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicles. Raft or canoe along the Rio Grande from several access points along FM 170 or make time to bird-watch the more than 300 avian species in the park.

Best Restaurants

Taqueria El Milagro

Authentic Mexican food is the focus at this local hangout, which has outdoor seating and views of the Chisos. Street tacos, fajitas, enchiladas, chile relleno, and grilled skirt steak are all on the menu at Taqueria El Milagro.

Venga

Part store and part café, Venga is housed in a modern concrete building, with plush couches and chairs scattered throughout. Grab a coffee before heading out on the day’s adventure, or stay for breakfast sandwiches, eggs benedict, breakfast burritos, and avocado toast. Venga also serves lunch, with dishes such as salads, sandwiches, burgers, street tacos, and quesadillas up for grabs.

DB’s Rustic Iron BBQ

It wouldn’t be a true Texas adventure without a healthy serving of barbecue. Founded in 2016, DB’s Rustic Iron BBQ has been “meating” the needs of hikers for years with smoked brisket, ribs, chicken, sausage, and turkey, plus specials such as beef ribs, menudo, and green chili beef stew. Live music gigs are regularly scheduled here, so bring your dancing shoes. 

Long Draw Pizza

Sited in a nondescript sheet metal building, Long Draw Pizza is a local favorite. Fried pickles, wings, cheesy bread, or mozzarella sticks are all solid starters, and you can build a custom pizza or choose from creative selections such as the Big Bend (topped with fajita chicken, green peppers, onions, Monterey jack cheese, and mozzarella), or the Pancho Villa (a fun option involving sausage, onions, green peppers, jalapeños, Monterey jack, and mozzarella). 

Milky Way Treats

Those with a sweet tooth should head to Milky Way Treats, where you can indulge in homemade ice creams like lemon-ginger cookie, Vietnamese coffee, brown butter pecan, banana pudding, and seasonal varieties. And don’t miss out on the sundaes, which come in fun flavor combinations such as tiramisu, cookie monster, and the classic banana split. 

Best Time to Visit

Needless to say, West Texas can get scorchingly hot in the summer months. If you do decide to visit in the summer, bring plenty of water, protective clothing, and lots of sunscreen—and always hike with a buddy or let someone know where you are.

However, the weather turns pleasantly cool in the winter and spring, which is the most popular time to visit Terlingua and the nearby national park. Avoid traveling around any major holidays, such as Christmas or Spring Break, when the area becomes flooded with tourists.

How to Get There

The closest airport is Midland International Airport and Space Port (MAF), which is about a three-and-a-half hour drive from Terlingua. But you’re more likely to snag a direct flight from El Paso International Airport (ELP), which is more than four hours away. However, road tripping is all a part of the West Texas experience—plan to take in some of the most stunning desert scenes Texas has to offer on your journey.

How to Get Around

There are no public transportation options in Terlingua, so you will need to rent a car to get to town and to navigate around Big Bend. Some local outfitters run shuttle services to the park for a fee (prices depend on your desired pick-up and drop-off locations)if you prefer not to drive.