This Italian Island Has Natural Hot Springs, Fabulous Hotels, and Stunning Beaches—Without the Crowds of Neighboring Capri

There’s something magical about Ischia, a volcanic island in the Bay of Naples. Perhaps it’s the naturally occurring thermal hot springs that have been luring travelers since the days of the ancient Greeks. Or maybe it’s the laid-back attitude, which contrasts with the vibe on its more glamorous (and more crowded) sister island, Capri. Ischia still feels a bit retro, in a good way. Being there now, it’s not hard to imagine what the island was like during the ‘60s, when the protagonists of Elena Ferrante’s Neapolitan Novels vacationed there.

I’ll admit that I didn’t fall in love with Ischia on my first trip 15 years ago, but on return trips, I fell under its spell as I visited its botanic gardens blooming with exotic plants, soaked in the hydrotherapy pools at San Montano while taking in panoramic views, and watched artisans paint beautiful scenes on ceramic tiles at Ceramiche Keramos. But in order to get more intel, I turned to Ischia habitués Marie Louise Sciò, whose family hospitality group runs the glamorous Mezzatorre Hotel on the island, and Annie Ojile, founder of Scooteroma and Personalized Italy, who visits often and organizes bespoke trips to the island.

Best Hotels and Resorts

Mezzatorre Hotel

This glamorous member of the Leading Hotels of the World may be a relatively new entry for Pellicano Hotels, the company founded by Marie Louise Sciò’s father Roberto, but it has a gloriously old soul. Set on a promontory overlooking a secluded bay, it channels the same 1960s Slim Aarons-esque vibes as the original Hotel Il Pellicano.

San Montano Resort & Spa

Fresh off the first phase of a renovation, this five-star resort now looks strikingly similar to its mid-century-inspired sister hotel, Borgo Santandrea in Amalfi, which was featured on our 2022 It List. On a previous visit, I loved soaking in the outdoor hydrotherapy pools, which boast swoon-worthy panoramic views of the island, and savored the excellent pizza on the outdoor terrace.

Regina Isabella Resort

This is the hotel that started it all. Built in the 1950s by publisher and film producer Angelo Rizzoli, who invited his famous friends, it has a charmingly retro vibe, a medical spa, a private beach, two jetties, a tennis court, and one of the island’s best Michelin-starred restaurants. I especially love the hand-painted tiles on the floors.

Villa Ravino

“Magical Villa Ravino is my favorite place to stay on the island,” says Ojile. “This family-run hidden gem is set amongst their famous and absolutely stunning garden, which is filled with succulent plants and cacti and is home to several peacocks. They also have a restaurant serving local dishes using many ingredients they grow right there in their garden. Every time I check in, I truly never want to leave.”

Best Things to Do

Relax on the beaches.

“Some places on the island are worth the journey all on their own—and the Bay of Sorgeto is one of them,” says Sciò, citing this as her favorite beach on the island. “It was one of my very first memories here: natural hot springs bubbling up into the sea, that enveloping sense of well-being, and a sunset so stunning it feels almost surreal.”

According to Ojile, San Montano Beach is the place where the Greeks first came ashore and formed Magna Graecia. “In modern times it is quite a happening place, but whenever I’m there I think about how it was when the Greeks discovered Ischia while I am soaking in the clear blue waters.”

Soak in the thermal hot springs.

“If you come to Ischia, you must soak in their famous water for at least one day. SPA (salus per aquam) is Latin for health through water and that’s exactly what I recommend on your Ischian holiday!” Ojile says. The two main thermal parks are Negombo and Giardini Poseidon, but the Fonte delle Ninfe Nitrodi claims to be the island’s oldest spa, and it has the Greek archeological relics to prove it.

Take a boat ride.

“A boat trip around the island is an absolute must—especially at sunset when the coastline glows with golden light and the hidden coves and dramatic cliffs reveal their full charm,” Sciò says. Ojile agrees that a boat ride is one of the best things to do on the island.

Visit the island’s botanical gardens.

“Make sure you don’t leave the island without visiting Giardini La Mortella—a magical garden where nature, art, and music come together in perfect harmony,” implores Sciò. “Created by Susana Walton, the Argentinian wife of British composer Sir William Walton, this lush subtropical and Mediterranean oasis is home to exotic plants and rare flowers from across the globe.”

Ojile’s favorite garden is the Giardini Ravino. “It will take your breath away as you’re winding through the garden guided by owner Lukas,” she says, suggesting you tour the garden, stay for dinner, and try their Ravino Spritz.

Tour a local winery.

Ischia’s volcanic soil is ideal for cultivating grapes, especially the local Biancolella grape. Visit a local winery like the family-run Casa d’Ambra up in the hills to learn more about it and taste some vino.

Best Shopping

Ceramiche Mennella

“For someone like me, who never misses a chance to find that hidden piece, that special color or shape, or a traditional object for the home or for new projects, Mennella is a paradise. And a visit to their workshop with its terrace overlooking the sea will truly brighten your day,” Sciò says.

Mario d’Ischia

Sciò also recommends this artisan shop in Lacco Ameno for custom sandals, saying, “I’ve even decided to feature them on ISSIMO, the digital extension of our hotels.”

Ceramiche Keramos

Nello Di Leva, the founder of this ceramics studio, has created bespoke plates for Indaco and a hand-painted tile mural for the Fonte delle Ninfe Nitrodi. The studio also makes beautiful tableware decorated with lemons, flowers, and other motifs that would make a great gift or souvenir.

Best Nightlife

Bar La Torre

“Don’t miss the chance to enjoy a sunset aperitif at our Bar La Torre. The view over San Montano Bay and Mount Vesuvius is simply unforgettable,” remarks Sciò. “And before you go, let Massimo mix you one of his signature cocktails—it’s the perfect farewell.”

Best Restaurants

Giardino d’Eden

“After visiting the Aragonese Castle, head to Giardino Eden—a stunning spot set right on the water, with breathtaking views of the castle,” Sciò suggests. “Known for its excellent seafood, it’s the perfect place to linger over a long, leisurely meal by the sea.”

Bar Gino

“This is always my go-to lunch place the moment I land on the island,” Ojile says. “Gino and his brother serve up the most amazing and huge bruschetta—the bread is just a vehicle to eat the famous Ischian tomatoes. The minerals from the former volcano Epomeo make them extra red and super delicious.” She also recommends the “zingara” sandwich, a local specialty.

Indaco

If you’re celebrating a special occasion or are just ready to splurge on a gourmet meal, the Michelin-starred Indaco at the Regina Isabella is the place to go. Local chef Pasquale Palamaro draws on his memories of the island’s flavors to create inventive dishes that highlight the sea’s bounty.

Lisola

“I really love the brand-new Lisola, the collaboration between Nino Di Costanzo, chef of Daní Maison in Ischia, and Ivano Veccia, a renowned pizzaiolo. It’s a gastronomic experience you absolutely must try—a pizza you’ll remember for a long time,” says Sciò.

La Bella Napoli

“La Bella Napoli wins every time! They serve up lunch and dinner al fresco and have a complete menu and also really fantastic Neapolitan pizza. There is something for everyone, including the freshest fish and seafood,” says Ojile. “My order is always the mosaico di mare antipasto with their classic focaccia followed by spaghetti alle vongole. Have your hotel book you a table in advance because they don’t have online reservations.”

Best Time to Visit

Summer—especially July and August—is the high season in Ischia, so that’s when you’ll find the best weather for swimming and sunbathing but also the most crowds. Many of the island’s hotels are seasonal, opening around Easter and closing in October or November.

“June, before the island fills up, is the perfect time to enjoy its beauty—the sea, the beaches, and the gardens—in a more relaxed atmosphere,” says Sciò. “October is also a wonderful time to experience a different side of Ischia: hiking up Mount Epomeo, which blankets the island in green from above, joining the grape harvest, and discovering local wines like the most famous one, Biancolella. And why not, even indulging in the island’s historic thermal baths.”

How to Get There

The closest airport is Naples Capodichino International Airport (NAP) on the mainland. From there, you can catch a ferry or hydrofoil from Molo Beverello (Naples’ ferry port). It takes about an hour by hydrofoil or 90+ minutes if you take a slower ferry. The main companies are SNAV, Alilauro, Caremar, and Medmar. Tickets cost around €12-26 each way. You can check the ferry schedules and book tickets in advance online.

Towns to Visit

Forio

Both Ojile and Sciò consider Forio their favorite town on the island. “Forio, with its labyrinth of narrow alleys, whitewashed houses, and bougainvillea in full bloom, is one of those places that immediately captures your heart. But it’s the view from the Church of Soccorso—perched dramatically above the sea—that truly takes your breath away,” says Sciò. “Watching the sun dip below the horizon from this spot, with the sky painted in warm tones of orange and pink, is an experience that feels almost sacred.”

Sant’Angelo

“Sant’Angelo is more glam, and the boutiques offer designer brands and everything from skincare to sandals to summer evening gowns,” says Ojile. “The town is so charming and gorgeous you could go for the shopping and stay for the views or vice versa!”

Lacco Ameno

The smallest town on the island, Lacco Ameno is the birthplace of luxury tourism in Ischia, as it’s home to the Regina Isabella Resort. Corso Angelo Rizzoli, named for the resort’s founder, is lined with boutiques, making it a nice place to stroll. This is also where you’ll find San Montano Beach and Negombo thermal park.

Ischia

The island’s capital is divided into areas called Ischia Porto and Ischia Ponte, which are technically part of the same municipality. Ischia Porto is where you’ll find the port where hydrofoils and ferries arrive from Naples and nearby islands. Meanwhile, in Ischia Ponte, the Castello Aragonese stands sentinel over a causeway that connects it to the rest of the island.

How to Get Around

For the most part, the towns in Ischia are quite walkable, with many streets that have been pedestrianized or are part of limited-traffic zones, but beware of cars or scooters on narrow roads. To travel between towns, buses and taxis are available.

Public Transit: EAV Bus runs a network of buses that travel between the towns on the island. A single ride costs €1.70 if you buy a ticket at a tabaccaio (small convenience shop) or €2.20 if you buy one on board.

Taxi: Both traditional taxis and tuk-tuks called calessini are widely available on the island. Expect to pay €10-40, depending on how far you’re going.