This 17-hour Train Ride Through the Arctic Circle Is One of the Most Beautiful Journeys in the World—With an 88% Chance of Seeing the Northern Lights

A Lapland village of just 150 citizens, Abisko, Sweden, might appear inconspicuous on the map. But it has cemented itself as one of the best places in the world to consistently see the northern lights.

Within a three-day visit, there is an 88 percent chance of experiencing the aurora borealis, thanks to a combination of Abisko’s remote location, minimal light pollution, and unique microclimate. As western winds from the Arctic Ocean steadily blow over the Swedish mountains, a meteorological phenomenon occurs: A rain shadow forms over Abisko. Known as the “blue hole,” this leads to an increased frequency of clear skies in Abisko, even if clouds are present in surrounding areas.

Seeing the northern lights was at the top of the wish list for both my parents and husband, so I suggested converging in Abisko to maximize our chances. There was only one seemingly challenging logistical factor: This village was located 150 miles north of the Arctic Circle.

However, despite its remote location, Abisko is easily accessible via train from Stockholm. And this isn’t just any train ride; its one of the most beautiful journeys in the world, traversing the length of Sweden over the course of 17 hours. The transportation promised just as much of an adventure as the experience itself.

Vy’s Norrland Night Train, known as the Arctic Circle Train, departs Stockholm Central Station daily at 6 p.m., with an arrival in Abisko by 11 a.m. Offering traditional seats in train cars and multiple sleeping car options, including couchette bunk beds and private sleeping compartments, there’s a range of choices for all preferences and budgets.

On a blustery February night, my family and I boarded the NT 94 train in Stockholm among a sea of travelers, including cross-country skiers, northern lights chasers, and a handful of locals. We were assigned traditional seats for the northbound journey due to sold-out sleeping cars, but even still, I was struck by the cleanliness and functionality of the main cabin, which had ample luggage storage, spacious legroom, reliable Wi-Fi, and charging outlets at every seat.

After storing our bags, we set off to explore, heading down the corridor to the observation and dining cars, which promised expansive views and hot meals. Serving Norrland-inspired dishes—from köttbullar (Swedish meatballs), mashed potatoes, and lingonberries to grilled chicken wraps and reindeer flatbreads—the food was prepared from scratch in Luleå with fresh, local ingredients.

We spent many hours in this observation car. Clutching steaming cups of Skogsglänta rooibos tea, we poured over the informational displays explaining the science behind the northern lights and the history of where we were headed: the Sápmi region. The Sámi, Sweden’s Indigenous people, have lived in the Arctic for thousands of years. Their cultural traditions and deep connection with nature are palpable throughout the region, from traditional reindeer herding practices to Márkanbáiki Sámi open-air museums to their leadership in ethical and sustainable tourism initiatives.

In the wee hours of the morning, it was unanimously decided we should try and get some sleep to gear up for an exciting few days ahead. However, not long after dozing off, I awoke to shrieks of joy coming from across the aisle. A group of college-age students from Málaga were seeing snow for the first time.

Despite years of living in northern climates, nothing could have prepared me for waking up to this otherworldly landscape of sparkling snow, capping towering pines and blanketing the ground. As I gazed out at the soft sunrise, the inky light still below the horizon, the sky turned to gold as the train sped past.

Yes, Abisko promises a northern lights display, but visitors experience much more than that.

When the train crosses into the Arctic Circle, you enter an entirely different world. One of soft light and stillness, of striking natural beauty and crisp mountaintops. One where we trekked across the frozen Torneträsk lake behind the shadow of a solitary moose. One where we drove a team of huskies 11 miles through the wilderness and ate traditional Sámi dishes in a tent around a crackling fire. One where we witnessed frequent solar halos, the northern lights’ daytime counterpart.

And at night, as my sister, husband, and I laid on our backs atop the frozen lake in Abisko National Park, all bundled in our snowsuits, the lights danced above us. Starting as a soft pink, it soon transformed into vibrant greens and magentas, an iridescent ribbon across the night sky. The stars and planets had never seemed clearer, and the milky way was a band of light, splitting the sky wide open. It was as close to magic as I’ve ever felt.

Three days later, we embarked on our journey back to Stockholm on the Arctic Circle Train, this time via the private compartments. Showcasing Scandinavian design, we were promised three berths, a sink, and towels and linens. With toilets and showers just a few doors down, it’s no wonder these rapidly sell out.

As we departed, I couldn’t help but reflect on the journey that got us here. The Scandinavian railway system served as a prime example of how remote locations don’t have to limit accessible, sustainable travel. Rather, it bridged the gap, allowing travelers to see some of the most untouched and beautiful parts of the world.

And, much to my surprise, our northern lights experience wasn’t over quite yet; the journey from Abisko back to Stockholm often provides travelers with one last treat. As I rushed back into the observation car, my nose pressed up against the glass, I watched as the northern lights made their appearance one final time.

Hours later, I quietly crept back down the halls and settled into my berth for the night, the train beginning to lull me to sleep. We might have come to Abisko for the northern lights, but what we saw and experienced and left with was so much more.