Thinking About Heading to Canada? This City Deserves a Visit

I visited Calgary this summer to see the Calgary Stampede, and it did not disappoint.

The Stampede days are the busiest and most eventful 10 days in Calgary every year, drawing almost a million-and-a-half visitors from all over Canada, the United States, and the rest of the world, and it’s easy to see why they come. The city buzzes with excitement, not to mention one of North America’s biggest rodeos. It’s a sea of white hats and cowboy boots all over town. While the city sells out months in advance, that’s not the only time you should visit. The city is friendly and fun year-round.

Calgary International Airport is Alberta’s busiest, no doubt in part because of its proximity to Banff National Park (and the surrounding winter ski areas). Banff is just 90 minutes away by car or shuttle (charming Canmore is a bit closer at just over an hour). And while some immediately head off to their Banff-area hotels to hike or ski, they are missing out. A short stay in the city can be quite enjoyable even when it’s not Stampede time.

Everyone visiting Calgary should see the views from the top of the Calgary Tower; you can see all the way out to the Rockies. Studio Bell National Music Centre is a unique attraction, hosting the Canadian Music Hall of Fame as well as performance spaces and exhibits about music in Canada; it incorporates the King Edward Hotel. The soaring Central Library is one of the city’s most ambitious and beautiful buildings. If you can’t make it to Calgary for the Stampede in July, never fear; you can learn about the city’s premier rodeo in the new Sam Centre year-round. Families may want to visit Heritage Park, Canada’s larges living-history village. In winter, the “Plus 15” allows you to walk virtually around the entire downtown without ever going outside.

If you want to be active, Calgary has hundreds of miles of biking trails, and you can rent a mountain bike at Bow Cycle. In winter, Calgary residents take to the ice to skate at the University of Calgary’s Olympic Oval, where you can rent skates if you don’t have them. And the options for getting outdoors are almost endless at Banff National Park or in Kananaskis Country.

The city has great steak houses (try the very old-school Caesar’s Steakhouse and Cocktail Bar for tableside Caesar salads, cherries jubilee, and one of the signature Caesar cocktails, or for something a bit different, there’s charbar for its wood-grilled meats or its just-as-popular pizzas). Some long-time staples endure (such as River Cafe, consistently ranked among the city’s top tables and just as popular for brunch as dinner; or Ten Foot Henry, which has a vegetable-forward menu but also fish and some meat; or Mercato Market Restaurant, a consistently popular Italian spot). But newer spots like Major Tom (popular for its excellent pasta, crispy roast chicken, and excellent cocktails) and Proof (which brings a small menu of bao and bar snacks to go with its excellent cocktails) are also worth a look.

Menus are also not quite as focused on Canadian food or Alberta beef any longer. Calgary is increasingly international and has a great Asian food scene, including the following popular spots: Paper Lantern (Vietnamese, and also ranks among the city’s best bars), Koji Katsu (Japanese), Jinbar (Korean-style pizza, fried chicken, and cocktails), and Shokunin (Japanese izakaya).

Calgary likes to drink, and the bar scene is strong. Some venerable establishments include Bottlescrew Bills Pub and Last Best Brewing and Distilling; but if you are looking for beer pairings with your food, you may do better at Rain Dog Bar (or Lulu Bar if you are looking for a chef-driven cocktail program). But Calgary also has excellent wine bars, including the Vin Room. Missy’s This That has both a robust wine list as well as good cocktails. Betty Lou’s Library is a speakeasy-style bar (you should probably make a reservation to be assured of entry … and the password). Shelter also has a speakeasy vibe and an online waitlist.

Where to Stay

The Fairmont Palliser is Calgary’s grand dame, the most elegant (and expensive) hotel in town. Rooms have high ceilings and good size, but most have small bathrooms; however, the convenient downtown location can’t be beat. The Hyatt Regency Calgary is a modern hotel, also in a great location, and offers some of the largest guest rooms in town. If you are looking for something more boutique-style, The Dorian might fit the bill, and it has one of the city’s best rooftop bar/restaurants, The Wilde.