Experience the coastline starts with a Crunchwrap.
Thirty minutes south of San Francisco on a beach boardwalk patio, a boozy Baja Blast and a cheesy bean burrito just taste different. There are all the classic touches of the taco tycoon: fast eats and bright splashes of color. But this is the end of the line for fast food and other chains, and a surfboard “parking lot” is a clue as to what’s to come. Heading south to Santa Cruz on Highway 1, the next 60 miles pack in towering dunes, regal redwoods, barking elephant seals, home-grown food stands, and a coastline devoid of the development so endemic to much of California.
Whether you give your time to the surf, rugged trails, or local harvests, the area seems to play with time, capturing both the surfing culture solidified in the 1960s and a time before oceanside development became the state’s new gold mine. As the developers keep snatching coastline in other places, these protected spaces create a world away from the millions of people less than an hour away.
A Surfing Club and a Cantina: A Match Made in Pacifica
Considered the most beautiful Taco Bell in the world, the Cantina in Pacifica sits one hundred feet from the surf. While you can find the newly released Cantina chicken menu throughout the franchise, the concept started in 2015 with special locations that made a jump toward restaurant vibes. This Pacifica location is the crown jewel of the alcohol-serving branch, bringing a classier style with a timber-dominated, “late 60s modernist vibe”.
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The popular spot is a true late 1960s love child, capturing the era’s striking architecture just before conservation efforts shut down coastal development. Its unusual design was part of a regional movement incorporating the materials, jutting lines, and open spaces of the barns and sheds still found along the coastline. While the building may have been fancy for an A&W and other restaurant iterations, it became an institution in the town–and a great place to watch whales. In 1972, its unique status was cemented when the state passed a law forbidding buildings west of Highway 1. Finally, in 2019 the restaurant got a glow-up to match its now national fame: exposed beams, wood flooring, an open fireplace, and a mural by San Francisco street artist Nora Bruhn.
Only an understated logo signals the chain’s presence, a singular occurrence for miles of coastline. Yet, in this case, this exception still makes sense–the surfers that pack the state beaches of Pacifica are looking for easy, cheesy grub.
While Mavericks Beach to the south pulls in pros for its 80-foot waves, the reliably gentle swells in Pacifica make it the only beginner surfing beach in the San Francisco area. Sharing the sand with the Cantina, both Surf Camp Pacifica and Adventure Out teach adults and children safe surfing fundamentals. Most Cantinas don’t have a drive-thru, but a to-go window was added in the renovations as a nod to all the sand-logged surfers. And the surfboard rack isn’t just for newbs; professional surfers like Kai Lenny also belly up at this Bell.
“Unlike typical beachside developments, our 60 miles of rugged coastline provide an ideal environment for surfers of all levels,” says John Hutar, president of The San Francisco Peninsula. “This is a true surfing destination.”
To get a sense of the scenery that inspired the Cantina’s aesthetic, head south. Called “Coastside” by the locals, the protected shores south are devoid of ocean-blocking condos and spreading sprawl. Instead, shifting dunes, sheer cliffs, beach streams, and small farms create a moody California landscape that could pass for an Irish coast. And the further south you go, the more the wildlife takes over.
Half Moon Bay: A Locally-Sourced Foodie Destination
Fishing boats and farm fields signal that this long sweeping bay is a feast for foodies. “The strong connection between local farmers and restaurant owners is clear as they share ingredients, infusing family recipes with local flavors,” says Hutar. The region’s commitment to mindful development protects these ties. “One-of-a-kind, family-run establishments have become integral to the coastside community.”
There are plenty of places to taste the local flavors. The community cooperative of ocean lovers that runs Ketch sources fresh fish from the harbor outside their doors. In town, Fattoria e Mare builds their seasonal Italian menus from local harvests with produce like artichokes, garlic, figs, tomatoes, and asparagus. Cameron’s Pub and Inn, a century-old establishment with an English pub vibe, serves local artichoke soup and homemade clam chowder.
Start your stay with massive breakfast burritos at Half Moon Bay Coffee Company and then visit independent shops on historic Main Street and the Farmer’s Market on Saturday mornings, May through December. Along the bay, tidepools and the California Coast Trail make for a relaxed afternoon of exploration before you sit down to find your favorite chowder. If it’s Fall, hit the pumpkin patches, Art and Pumpkin Festival, and the World Champion Pumpkin Weigh-Off. Any time of year, cap off the night with a cocktail at the Ritz Carlton as a bagpipe mournfully croons at dusk.
The Wild Stretch of Highway 1
South of Half Moon Bay, the 48 miles to Santa Cruz are a long string of dunes, state beaches, and small farms that roll out from the redwood-covered Santa Cruz mountains. “The Peninsula is home to 70% protected land and open space,” shares Hutar as he describes the district’s mission to retain rural character with sustainable farming and offer ecologically sensitive public spaces.
Before you hit the trails, grab fresh fare at Pescadero, a tasty inland diversion off Highway 1. The unassuming ranching town of just over 600 residents barely stands out from the hills but draws bikers and hikers to the nearby beaches, mountains, and wildlife refuge. For those in the know, stopping at the historic Arcangeli’s Grocery Company is a must. The smell hits you at the wooden door–leaving with the garlic herb and artichoke bread that has made this family-run grocer famous since 1929 is inevitable. Head down the street to the Harley Farms Goat Dairy and pet the curious herd before snagging a round of soft, sharp cheese. Complete your picnic provisions next door with some Rosé or Pinot Noir from Sante Arcangeli Family Wines.
Pick your sandy vista from here–there is barely a moment to vex about the turnoff you didn’t take before a new one pops up. Each beach offers a unique cocktail of cliffs, tidepools, caves, and trails, with coastal birds outnumbering human visitors. It’s easy to lose hours in less than a dozen sandy miles, and the hostel perched at the Pigeon Point Lighthouse offers everything from shared dorms to private cabins for those who want to linger. The panoramic view from the succulent-covered grounds is ideal for spotting whales and getting lost in the stars.
Leave plenty of time for Año Nuevo State Park, one of the world’s largest elephant seal breeding colonies. Up to 10,000 elephant seals cavort and give birth here throughout the year. It’s a four-mile hike to see these up to 4,000-pound animals bellow, flap, and sprawl over the sand. For those that decide to stay closer to the headquarters at the historic dairy ranch, migratory Cormorants, otters, sea lions, and the endangered San Francisco garter snake and California red-legged frog also call the marshes, beaches, conifer bluffs, and dune fields home.
Don’t rush the drive. While the larger cities of Santa Cruz and Monterey to the south offer ample beauty, Coastside’s commitment to balancing sustainable agriculture and conserving public land creates a unique synergy.
“The Peninsula’s history and agricultural background create a strong sense of community,” muses Huter. “That’s what makes it so unique when you make a stop at each town and city.”
This is, after all, a place where even the singular Taco Bell mindfully mimics the agricultural roots–with just a dash of dramatic mod design.
