Salt Lake City’s Cool Factor Is Rising—and It Starts in These 3 Neighborhoods



Utah’s capital has been associated with the Mormon community since its founding in 1847 by the religious leader Brigham Young. The Gothic spires of the Salt Lake Temple still stand out against the cluster of modern office buildings that make up the skyline, but the temple has been closed for renovations since December 2019. Most of the temple was formerly accessible only to members; when it reopens next year, it will offer a public open house for the first time. 

The transformation reflects wider changes afoot in Salt Lake City. Younger adults have been relocating there because of its relatively affordable real estate, as well as the outdoor-adventure scene in nearby skiing and hiking areas like Park City and Brighton. As of 2024, Utah has the lowest median age of any state in the country.

This infusion of youthful energy and capital has resulted in a burst of creativity. On a recent visit, I spent time in the neighborhoods that best reflect this shift.

Curator’s Café, in the Evo Hotel.

evo Hotel


From Left: Caputo’s Market & Deli; the 23-foot whale sculpture in 9th & 9th.

Caputos; Logan Sorenson/Visit Salt Lake


Downtown

Downtown is the setting for one of the state’s biggest events: the Utah Pride Festival, which attracts crowds of up to 50,000 each June. Salt Lake City has one of the highest concentrations of LGBTQ people in the U.S., and three of its seven city council members identify as LGBTQ. For a place that has long been considered conservative, that feels like a sea change. 

But then, says wine and spirits expert Jim Santangelo, “Salt Lake City has always offered up surprises.” I joined Santangelo’s Whiskey & History walking tour of Downtown, where I learned that though the Mormon faith famously preaches abstinence from alcohol, Brigham Young himself produced a whiskey called Valley Tan—“for trading and medicinal purposes,” according to Santangelo. Our tour ended at White Horse Spirits & Kitchen, where we tasted locally made whiskeys and ciders, which were served with freshly shucked oysters from both the East and West Coasts.

My favorite drink of the day was another beverage discouraged by the Mormon faith. The celebrated coffee at Caputo’s Market & Deli is roasted by La Barba, which has been in operation since 2012. Caputo’s was founded in 1997, and its shelves reflect the family’s Greek and Italian heritage. Owners Matt and Yelena Caputo import artisan cheeses, tinned fish, and oils directly from Italy. The place has become a neighborhood go-to.

The 225-room Asher Adams, Autograph Collection, which opened last year in a carefully restored historic train depot, is now the coolest place to stay in Downtown. The building’s original stained-glass windows, coved ceilings, and gold detailing all contribute to an atmosphere of early-20th-century splendor.

The bar at White Horse Spirits & Kitchen.

Bourbon Group


9th & 9th and the Maven District

Just southeast of lower Downtown lies 9th & 9th, an often-overlooked blip on the Salt Lake City map. I made a beeline for the Salt & Honey Makers Market, where cofounders Ashley Collett and Nicole Choules give 250 mostly local vendors a space to sell handmade products. I picked up a laser-cut map of the city by architect Caitlin Blythe, plus stickers of Collett’s illustrations. (One of her bestsellers is a rainbow decal, which makes sense, given the shop’s location on Harvey Milk Boulevard.) Afterward, I rewarded my efforts with two kinds of pie. At Pizza Nono, I ordered slices dotted with salami and drizzled with local honey; at Pie Fight, just down the block, I opted for a piece of blueberry-lemon.

Both establishments are near the “Out of the Blue,” a colorful 23-foot statue of a humpback whale that has become a quirky symbol of the area since its installation in 2022. Some locals claim the sculpture is responsible for record snowfalls in the state since its arrival.

To the west of 9th & 9th lies the Maven District, a collection of 100 businesses, most of which are female-owned, spread across 10 buildings. It was established in 2015 by Salt Lake City native Tessa Arneson and her cofounder, Rocky Donati. Colorful murals, many by women artists, greeted me at every turn; one by illustrator Brooke Smart, depicting women lifting each other up, reflects the ethos of the district. The Maven is home to shops, fitness studios, and restaurants. Highlights include Pantry Products, where founder Michelle Czarka whips up small-batch, earth-friendly balms and oils, and Normal Ice Cream, which was nominated for Outstanding Bakery by the James Beard Foundation in 2023 (and was the first ice cream shop ever to receive a nod in the category). The Maven is continuing to grow; last year, Arneson launched a small group of short-term rental apartments.

An art market at Fisher Brewing Co.

Mack Lambert/Fisher Brewing Company


Granary District 

The line for the all-ages music venue Kilby Court snaked around the block when I visited on a Thursday evening. The space, which can hold 200 people, hosts up-and-coming artists of all genres. In the early 2000s, it was a launchpad for acts like Death Cab for Cutie and Dashboard Confessional; Doja Cat performed there when she was starting out in 2018.

The surrounding Granary District, one of the oldest neighborhoods in Salt Lake, was once an industrial and manufacturing hub. Today, it’s redefining itself as a playground for young adults, with breweries, live music venues, and, as of 2022, the 50-room Evo Hotel. The property—the first of three from the gear brand of the same name—blends seamlessly into the neighborhood, with floor-to-ceiling murals paying homage to nearby attractions, such as Snowbird resort. It’s part of a complex called Campus Salt Lake, which includes an indoor skate park and a 26,000-square-foot bouldering gym set inside century-old warehouses. There’s also a massive shop that offers gear rentals for all kinds of outdoor sports, making it an excellent complement to the adventures found beyond the city.

An evening walk through the district led me to Fisher Brewing Co., which attracts beer enthusiasts with its 18 rotating taps, food trucks, and a dog-friendly heated patio with picnic tables. After sipping on Fisher Beer, a classic pilsner, I headed around the corner to the Woodbine Food Hall, where the colorful graffiti paired well with my Korean fried chicken. 

Not ready to call it a night, I headed up to Evo’s rooftop Crown Bar, where I cozied up around the firepit and toasted with a beer from local brewer Uinta, with the city in the foreground and the Wasatch Mountains in the distance. 

A version of this story first appeared in the June 2025 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline “Shaking It Up.”



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