Hair often has a mind of its own. Cowlicks, frizz, those rogue gray hairs, and that one piece that *never* curls or flattens like the rest despite your best efforts are proof of that. There’s also the burden of re-doing your hair in the same way every time you wash, a process that often involves hours of prep time. Enter: the concept of heat training your hair, which refers to using heat-styling tools to gradually loosen your hair’s natural curl pattern over time. Is heat training fact or fiction—and is it a good decision?
What Is Heat Training Hair?
Heat training hair effectively means that you are using heated tools to slowly, over time, change the texture of your natural hair, explains professional stylist Marc Ballance. This method involves repeatedly applying controlled heat to reshape the hair structure while minimizing damage as much as possible. This is done frequently and consistently with the goal of creating hair that’s more manageable and looks the way you want without chemical relaxers.
Can You Actually Heat Train Hair?
Yes, it’s theoretically possible to “heat train” hair over time, but your mileage may vary and everyone’s results are different. The idea is that the molecular bonds that cause your hair to curl will break down from repeated use of heat, creating a more relaxed, straighter look.
“Hair types most interested in this styling approach are usually more curly and wavy textures that want to have their hair strands straighter and looser,” says Ballance.
He does say that it’s not his favorite approach to handling hair, though, as he’s a fan of embracing natural texture. You can do this by using the right products and techniques for your texture that help really show off your curls and texture. This is also less damaging over the long run. Ballance says you can also choose haircuts that suit you and your hair.
All that said, if heat training helps you combat that feeling of “fighting” with your hair every day—and you really want a looser, straighter texture—then it may be considered a good alternative to aggressive chemical treatments.
How to Heat Train Hair
Heat training hair requires consistent use of heat tools—like blow-dryers and flat irons—to gradually loosen your natural curl or wave pattern. Here’s a step-by-step guide you can follow, which should be done every time you wash your hair.
1. Wash and Condition
Start by washing and conditioning the hair with products designed to hydrate and protect. “Always make sure you are using hydrating products, such as moisture shampoo and conditioners,” Ballance says.
2. Apply Heat Protectant
Today’s class of heat protectants are top-notch, shielding your hair from damage while expediting drying time. “When using heat make sure you have heat protection on the hair strands,” Ballance says. You can also apply a straightening cream to further promote a smoother texture.
3. Use Heat Tools
Once protected, use your heat styling tools to straighten hair texture. This can include a blow-dryer on medium heat with a round brush. Section your hair to ensure even application of heat. If desired, you can use a flat iron on each section (passing no more than once or twice) to further straighten your hair.
4. Repeat Weekly
Limit heat styling to no more than once a week to allow the hair time to recover and avoid damage. Deep conditioning treatments and protein masks can help nourish your strands and keep them healthy during the process. Over time, hair should begin to have a straighter shape, but Balance says the amount of time this takes depends on the person and their hair texture.
Remember, heat training isn’t something you have to do or should do. It’s a personal decision. Embracing your natural hair texture is an option, too, so consider ways you might be able to do so before starting the heat training process, which is irreversible until new growth comes in.