In Ireland, you’ll definitely want to go to the chipper — a fish ‘n’ chips shop — with “chips” being fries, which are typically made with high-starch Maris Piper potatoes here. Some argue that modern Irish seafood cooking began when a young Italian named Giuseppe Cervi opened shop in Dublin’s Great Brunswick Street in 1900. (According to legend, his wife Palma would point and say “uno di questo, uno di quello?” which is why you’ll still hear Dubliners asking for a “one and one,” indicating fish and chips, at the counter.) From classic chippers to those elevating the genre, these fish and chips spots across Ireland make for the most delicious way to explore the green isle.
The Fish Box (Dingle)
Courtesy of The Fish Box
When it’s not at sea, chasing after prawns, monkfish, and hake, you’ll find the Flannery family’s boat, the Cú Na Mara, moored at the pier in Dingle harbour. A short walk away, just across from the neo-Gothic chapel on Green Street, clients line up at The Fish Box, which offers takeaway service and sit-down tables inside and out. The buffalo hake bites, served with a Cashel blue cheese dipping sauce, have a cult following, but the best bet may be The Sharing Box, a sampler that includes monkfish goujons, breaded sole strips, chips cut from Maharees potatoes, and the Cú Na Mara’s catch-of-the-day, breaded and deep fried.
Fish Shop (Dublin)
Courtesy of Antonia Kenny Photography for Fish Shop
At their casual fish counter, by the tram tracks in the hopping neighborhood of Smithfield, Peter Hogan and partner Jumoke Akintola have developed a cult following for their refined take on the chipper staples of goujons, haddock, and hake, including an excellent fish sandwich. Dredged in potato flour, and then leavened with beer and baking powder coating lighter than a tempura batter, the fish is quick-fried in canola oil, and comes out finger-scalding hot, perfect for being enjoyed with a chilled glass of Chablis.
Little Saltee (Kilmore Quay)
Courtesy of Little Saltee
Not far from the fishing port, the fish on the menu here is fresh; it’s one of the few chippers with its own fleet of fishing boats. The catch of the day could include monkfish, served as medallions in a coating of herb-and-lemon crumbs; haddock, pan-fried and dressed with sun-dried-tomato butter; and lemon sole, accompanied by housemade tartar sauce.
Leo Burdock (Dublin)
PAUL FAITH / AFP via Getty Images
This institution has six counters in the Dublin area and has maintained the tradition of encasing fish in a thick armor of golden batter and deep-frying it in lard since 1913. Most of the fish arrives frozen — you’ll see lemon sole, scampi, and goujons (rounded strips) of cod listed on the menu over the deep-fryers — but Leo Burdock is a good introduction to the Irish way with fried fish.
Andchips (Dungarvan)
For the most up-to-date take on fried fish, head south to County Waterford. At outdoor tables on the side of the quay, people line up for Andchips, the passion project of Eunice Power, well-known in Ireland for her television appearances. The concept here is wild Irish fish, but the standout on the menu is the Spice Box, Andchips’ take on the spice bag, an only-in-Ireland takeout oddity that mixes chicken with fried potatoes, peppers, onions, and Chinese spices. Power’s version swaps in fried fish, which she tosses with the vegetables in chile, paprika, and cumin, serving it all up in a box with mayonnaise and malt vinegar. Accompanied by natural wines served by the glass, it’s perfect for a waterfront lunch.
Spooney’s (Lahinch)
The little sister to Vaughan’s Anchor Inn, a superior seafood-themed pub in the pretty fishing village of Liscannor, southwest of Galway, Spooney’s is a waterfront chipper that elevates the genre. Local potatoes are steamed, blast-chilled, and cooked in beef dripping, while the fish is dredged in flour seasoned with bonito flakes and dashi, and dipped in a sourdough batter. If you’ve got room, enjoy the “cow-to-cone” ice cream, made from milk collected from the Lacey family’s farm next door.
Dooly’s (Tramore)
For a classic seaside fish-and-chips experience, head for Dooly’s alongside the pier at Tramore Beach, where you’ll find an old-fashioned amusement park, complete with bumper cars and cotton candy. Dooly’s specialty is fried haddock, served with local Wexford potatoes, best eaten on one of the benches on the “prom,” the beachfront promenade, looking out on the breakers of the Celtic Sea.
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