Sat on a hammock in the low morning light with nothing but the ocean in my view, next to me there’s a hum from the hose where the gardener is misting the magenta bougainvillaea lining the paths. I say good morning in Spanish, and we exchange pleasantries before he quickly points to the sea behind me. “Hay una ballena”—“There’s a whale,” he says, so casually like he’s seen it a million times before. I can’t quite believe my eyes; there, in my direct view from the edge of the terrace, I see it. Flying in the air, it lands in a majestic and elegant splash before spraying water from underneath the blanket of ocean covering it. Not entirely unusual, I’m told; it’s whale season, and the Oaxacan coast sees many as they transit across the ocean. This was my first time visiting this coastline in Mexico; it reminded me so much of Big Sur in California: rugged, beautiful, and peaceful.
The entire stretch of coast from Puerto Escondido (a lively, busier beach town) offers something unique and interesting. Still, I am so glad we chose to stay in the colorful fishing village of Puerto Angel at Casa Baori. This sleepy town doesn’t have much in terms of restaurants or bars, but that is what makes it so charming. We arrived by car, which was helpful to explore more vibrant towns nearby like Zipolite and Mazunte. The surroundings are the destination here, the property is tucked away just 15 minutes walking distance from the nearest local beach of Playa Puerto Angel, a small but beautiful cove where local fishermen bring in freshly caught fish every morning. The beach is lined with colorful lounge chairs and umbrellas and you can even take whale watching tours or explore local beaches not accessible by boat here.
Casa Baori was the perfect choice for our stay in Puerto Angel because had we not wanted to leave the property, we would have felt completely content. The property was outstanding in every way. The chic design with natural materials like jute, wood, and stone, perfectly aligned with the rocky coast’s natural environment. When we first arrived, I made a beeline straight for the sliding doors of our patio to see a view of the shimmering Pacific framed by our very own terrace. Three sleek lounge chairs sat on the edge with an uninterrupted ocean view, just miles and miles of blue.
I felt a sense of privacy and intimacy here even though the property was part of a larger communal villa. Our two-bedroom bungalow was self-catering with all the amenities we needed: a kitchen, coffee machine, dining area, and even a surround sound system to enjoy music with our morning coffee.
One of the most memorable parts of our three-night stay was the complimentary daily breakfast. This wasn’t just any old continental spread. This breakfast felt as good as any I’ve experienced at high-end luxury restaurants or hotels. Each morning, we would sit at the grand, gorgeously carved, communal wooden table overlooking the ocean. We were served hot pots of local Oaxacan coffee and freshly baked bread in baskets, which I slathered with some life-changing fresh mango and mandarin jams. The breakfast menu changed daily, offering a unique and incredible plate of local Mexican cuisine each time. Three lovely women made breakfast for us, frying freshly made corn tortillas for chilaquiles next to bags of vibrant local vegetables, the scent of chili, coriander, and lime permeating the air.
There was also an offer of a private cooking service should you want it, or use of the immaculately designed, natural wood communal kitchen—beautiful marble worktops and breakfast bar equipped with every high-tech kitchen item you could ever need. On our last night, some guests we met at breakfast went to the nearby beach and collected fresh morning-caught snapper from the local fisherman to make for their evening meal. If we had more time, we would have done the same.
Every detail of this stay was considered: The shared areas included a meditation space with a hammock, a bar, a mini kitchen area to make drinks, a firepit, a living and reading room, a co-working area, and a panoramic infinity pool. It was hard not to spend every minute in this secluded coastal haven and never leave, but like the beautiful whales greeting me in the morning, I, too, had to cross the ocean home.
