This Ligurian village weaves tales of witchcraft into every cobblestone.
With its hauntingly beautiful alleys and an unmistakable Italian allure that distinguishes these tiny Ligurian hill towns, Triora, Italy, casts a spell over all who visit. Set in the middle of the Argentina Valley, not too far from Imperia, this hidden gem is known as the European Salem.
What makes this so-called “Town of Witches” a magnet for tourists? The answer is its history, which dates back to the 16th century, a time marked by tales of dark rituals and religious inquisitions. Triora was once known for its witch trials. More than 30 women were condemned for their supposed healing powers and for being in possession of certain herbs, making them suspicious initiators of town problems and livestock deaths.
The witchcraft trials of Triora cast a long shadow over the village, tarnishing its reputation. Yet despite its tumultuous past, it’s impossible not to be enchanting by Triora’s stone houses, dark alleyways, and architectural features filled with folklore. From the beauty of its castle to its stunning views, here’s what to know about visiting Europe’s Salem.
Triora & Poggio della Croce Viewpoint
Start at the Poggio della Croce, a panoramic vista that takes its name from the iron cross placed at the end of a holy mission surrounded by a centuries-old chestnut tree. Next, visit the remains of the Church of Santa Caterina, a 14th century chapel built by the Capponi family.
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The streets of Triora are also worthy of attention, from Via Camurata to San Dalmazzo and Via alla Chiesa, where each corner is embellished with elegant slate portals (engraved with the coat of arms from noble families). The best way to enjoy Triora is by immersing yourself in La Cabotina, also known as “the witches’ house.” Here, you will be able to access one of the scariest homesteads, notorious for being the most popular sacrificial altar for rites made between witches and evil,–perfect for a Halloween visit. Additionally, you’ll want to stop as you approach the huge Saccarello Mount and the timeless Delle Forche Mount, both for their breathtaking views and for the legends surrounding both sites.
Triora & the Ethnographic Museum of Witchcraft Next to The Iconic Delicacies Shop
Apart from its supernatural appeal, Triora’s past comes to life at the Ethnographic Museum of Witchcraft. Don’t forget to focus on the museum’s six rooms, each filled with exhibits that share the history of the little town. At the museum, you will also find reconstructions of what farmers’ lives were like, including remains of agricultural tools and immersive experiences about the art of craftsmanship, renowned at the time. Have some spare time? End your tour by stopping at one of the four rooms that follows the historic trial in 1857, a must-see for a fascinating look at the town’s history.
Despite being a small community, there are many things to try and food to taste, especially for those with a strong sweet tooth. As you step foot on the central avenue (commonly named Corso Italia), you’ll smell the art of tradition with local herbalists selling healing treats, from candies to cookies rich in chestnuts, licorice, mint, and local spices. To find a perfect souvenir, go straight to the Museo Civico of Triora, where a little shop sells customized amulets and colorful talismans for protection and good luck.
If you’re feeling peckish, end your trip with a stop at Panificio Asplanato, the iconic bakery that opened in the ’80s and is renowned for its homemade bread, leavened on wooden boards with bran dust. Don’t forget to try the strawberry or apple jam.
