France’s Bougiest Alcohol Experience Has Nothing to Do With Wine

This low-key region offers all the charm of Bordeaux and Burgundy, minus the crowds.

Okay, you’ve got me: I love a good boozy vacation. And whether you’re an alcohol connoisseur or a special-occasion-only drinker, you can likely understand the appeal of visiting a place for yes, its culture and its history and its food, but also its libations that often reflect this history and culture and make the food even better. It’s not exactly groundbreaking travel intel that France fits perfectly into this category: French wine is, of course, globally renowned as the best of the best, with wine regions like Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Beaujolais attracting millions of tourists a year eager to visit vineyards and sample bottles.

 And while (if you are a drinker) no visit to France is complete without enjoying a bottle of wine or two, there’s another spirit that has long sat on the sidelines while wine got all the hype. This is a spirit that is just as much part of the cultural fabric of France as wine: Cognac. And a visit to the Cognac region of France not only offers luxurious Cognac houses, cocktails, and food pairings, but also charming small towns, medieval seaside cities, and artsy enclaves that rarely see American visitors.

Cognac 101

So what exactly is Cognac? In short, it is a brandy, a.k.a. distilled wine that is typically consumed as a post-dinner digestif. Brandy is produced all over the world, but there are three qualities it must have in order to be considered Cognac: most importantly, it needs to be produced in the Cognac region of east-central France, located in the Charente department within the Nouvelle-Aquitaine. It also must be distilled twice in copper sills, and it must be aged at least two years in French oak barrels.

You’re probably at least vaguely familiar with some of the biggest names in the Cognac industry, which have long been synonymous with luxury and extravagance: Hennessy, Couvousier, and Remy Martin, to name a few, but there are countless other small Cognac producers spread throughout the region, many of them family-owned for centuries. You might also be familiar with Cognac bottles being sold with an assortment of initials next to them (VS, VSOP, XO, etc.), which refer to how long the Cognac has been aged (the longer the aging process, the rarer and more expensive the bottle): VS (Very Special) is the youngest with at least 2 years of aging while XXO (Extra Extra Old) is for Cognac aged at least 14 years.

Cognac is typically smooth and fruity, with a hint of vanilla, but its exact flavor profile will vary depending on the specific brand and age of the liquor. It is typically consumed by itself, or on ice, but it’s also used in endless cocktail combinations, including some that are well-known in the cocktail world, like the Sidecar (Cognac, orange liquor, and lemon) or the Sazerac (Cognac, Absinthe, bitters, and sugar). There are also several other well-known liqueurs made from Cognac, like Chambord (Cognac infused with raspberries and vanilla) and Grand Marnier (Cognac infused with orange).

The Cognac Houses

If you like what you hear about Cognac, then a visit to one of the region’s countless Cognac domains (houses) is right up your alley. All the major international brands have their houses in Cognac and are open for tours and tastings, but there are also hundreds of smaller houses that open their doors to visitors interested in learning more about the Cognac making process. The bigger brands tend to have the more high-tech operations, but the small houses (many of which are just as historic) are more intimate and offer samples of Cognacs that are harder to find overseas.

The best itinerary will hit up at least two different houses: a big brand and a smaller one. Hennessy has been producing Cognac since 1765, creating a worldwide global phenomenon embraced by hip-hop stars and those looking to emulate a high-rolling lifestyle. Its role as a leader in the Cognac world makes a visit to its Maison Hennessy in the town of Cognac (yes, that’s the name of the region and a town within it) an essential part of any trip to the area. After a short boat crossing of the Charente River (a tribute to the old barges that would transport Cognac barrels to the sea), you’ll get an impressively high-tech introduction to the history of Hennessy and the Cognac-making process in general. Tours also include a visit to their aging cellars and a tasting; additional tour options for an extra fee include a look at the Hennessy Cooperage, where you can learn the ins and outs of barrel making, as well as decanter masterclasses and mixology workshops.

About 10 minutes outside of the seaside town of La Rochelle, you’ll find Cognac Normandin-Mercier, a family-owned Cognac house that’s been in operation since 1872. On their family estate (still home to members of the family), visits feature an overview of the Cognac distilling process, a visit to their aging cellars, and a tasting; they also produce Pineau des Charentes, a popular regional aperitif made of wine and grape juice. Additional tour experiences include a visit to their Paradis room, which holds Cognacs aged 50 years and older, and a Cognac and chocolate pairing.

The Cognac Region

 If you’ve gotten this far reading and still aren’t sure if Cognac is your thing, don’t fret—there’s still plenty to keep non-drinkers entertained in the region. You can travel here by train, but renting a car will ensure you see some of the smaller towns and Cognac houses that dot the landscape. Wherever you travel while in this little slice of the country, you’ll likely feel you might just be the only American in town. This is French vacation territory (with a good mix of British tourists thrown in for good measure), meaning it’s the perfect place to practice your French and truly submerge yourself in French culture that doesn’t cater to American sensibilities.

Start your trip with a visit to the seaside city of La Rochelle, located just under three hours from Paris by train. This medieval city of 80,000 people was once a center of maritime trade as well as a Protestant stronghold (to this day, there are no Catholic churches here); today it’s a popular summer vacation destination for French travelers looking to avoid foreign tourists. The streets are filled with a mix of architecture representing the depth of the city’s history, from medieval half-timbered houses to 17th-century archways topped with gargoyles. Charming daily markets provide a bounty of local produce and seafood (the region is also famous for its oysters and its salt) while a collection of prominent restaurants present stunning ocean views and dazzling seafood dishes. The city actually has an impressive collection of Michelin-starred restaurants with a heavy emphasis on seafood, including two-starred Christopher Coutanceau; if you can’t nab a table there, its head chef also has a more casual spot right next door, La Yole de Chris.

Despite its name recognition, the town of Cognac is much smaller than La Rochelle, but still delivers an impressive array of 17th and 18th-century architecture (including Cognac house chateaux like Hennessy), picturesque cobblestone streets, and delightfully gourmand restaurants (don’t miss the stellar La Maison). Other highlights of the region include the hilltop town of Boruage (the hometown of explorer Samuel de Champlain and therefore considered a pilgrimage for the Quebecois); the oyster mecca Cite de L’Huitre; the quintessentially French village of Bouteville and its divine and worth-the-detour vinegar producer La Baume de Bouteville; and the university city of Angoulême, known for its street art, stunning 12th-century cathedral, and funky art scene (it’s considered the world capital of the comic strip).