Agave is the heart of any bottle of mezcal. When produced in a traditional manner, mezcal is more than just a simple distillation of agave. It reflects generations of focus on these unique and impressive plants.
As opposed to tequila, only made from Blue Weber agave, mezcal can be derived from a variety of different species. Each has its own characteristics, are grown in different environments, and impart unique flavors.
“The existence of different species makes mezcal tasting fun and complex,” says Lorena Teran, director of agriculture with El Buho Mezcal. “In each batch, we find different flavors and aromas, some of which come from the plant, and some from the fermentation.”
More than 200 unique species of agave grow in Mexico, but the exact number used to make mezcal is difficult to define. “Many people say ‘around 20’ very confidently, but ultimately, it falls upon how you consider these agave types as they continue to evolve into various subspecies, and if you believe the current classification system to be correct,” says Max Reis, beverage director at agave-focused restaurant Mírate in Los Angeles.
For those who enjoy fine mezcal, it may not be apparent why to learn about these plants would matter. “Understanding the differences between the agave species is a great way to start exploring the mezcal world,” says Andrés Cruz, sales and hospitality manager for Mezcal Vago. “Each species is the result of generations of evolution and natural adaptation to the different terroirs.”
Reis echoes this sentiment. “Some agave takes longer to cultivate, some is only grown wild, some is exclusively grown in a particular region,” he says. “Learning about the agave grows awareness of consumption, and makes you appreciate and revere the mezcal in your copita.”
To understand the myriad complexities of the agave species from Mexico and their unique terroirs would take rigorous study. Here’s a quick overview of a few of the agave species commonly used to make mezcal.
Espadín (Agave Angustifolia)
In modern mezcal production, espadín is the most common species of agave used. Of the species grown in Oaxaca and Puebla, it’s the most related to the Blue Weber and is the easiest to cultivate. In Oaxaca, it’s common to see fields of espadín that await harvest.
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“[Espadíns have] long, narrow leaves, are pale bluish green-gray, and 1 ½ -2 ½ meters tall when mature,” says Terans.
Espadíns can take anywhere from six to 10 years to mature. Mezcal produced from espadín has a profile that’s earthy, rich, and fruity, and typically without any floral qualities.
Cuishe (Agave Karwinskii)
Among agave species, karwinskii might have the widest variety of names. “This species has a lot of variations. Some are very big, tall and thick, some are narrow, small, some dark green, some bright, some look more yellow or brown,” says Reis. “People call them a lot of different names, depending on the physical characteristic and the community they live in.”
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“Cuishe agave in most regions is a karwinskii varietal, and [it] has a stalk like a small palm tree, with the pencas or spines clustered at the top and a trunk of exposed piña and wood,” says Reis. “They are very friendly wild agave and often will grow near others for easy cross-pollination.”
These agaves are also known by names like Madrecuishe, Bicuishe, Cirial, Tobasiche, Barril, San Martinero, Candelillo, Largo, Marteño, and Cachitun. They generally take between 12 to 15 years to mature. Mezcal made from this variety tends to have more earthy, chocolaty flavors and aromas, with a bit more minerality.
Tobalá (Agave Potatorum, Agave Nussaviorium, Agave Seemanniana)
Tobalá agaves are among the smallest species used in mezcal production, and they’re difficult to procure. “This agave can only reproduce by seeds and is found in arid and difficult landscapes, like big rocks or steep slopes,” says Cruz.
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“Tobalá is one common name used for at least three different species: A. Potatorum, A. Nussaviorim, and A. Seemanniana,” says Teran. “They have short and wide leaves, green leaves with red edges, and curvy spines, and are [around three feet] tall when mature.”
Mezcals made from tobalá agaves are sought after among enthusiasts for their light, sweet, floral, earthy, and rich flavor profile.
Coyote (Agave Lyobaa)
Identifying the coyote agave presents a unique challenge. There are different agaves called coyote throughout Oaxaca, most notably A. Lyobaa in the Tlacolula and Ocotlan valleys, and to a lesser degree, A. Americana in the region of Sola de Vega. The aromas and flavors of mezcal made from A. Lyobaa are rich and complex, with earthy, herbaceous, vegetal, and spice notes.
“Many of them have wider, fatter leaves in [a] short bushy shape,” says Reis. “But with a tall rise to its base, still covered in spines like short, fat karwinskii, but the trunk is spines, instead of the naked piña portion.”
“A. Lyobaa is bright yellowish green with orange spines, leaves are narrow [at] the base and, a little wider in the middle. They take around seven to 10 years to mature, and are scarce and rare,” says Teran.
Mexicano (Agave Rhodacantha)
Mexicano agaves can be either cultivated or found in the wild, primarily in arid, hot areas with low vegetation density. They take around eight to 15 years to fully mature in most environments.
“Mexicano agave typically resembles espadín agave, a pale-colored green, long spines, medium-sized, but with a denser spacing of spines,” says Reis. “The spines, I always note, are fatter in the middle, almost like a long football.”
Mezcal made from this agave is known for its dense, oily mouthfeel and complex, varied flavor profiles.
“Mexicano commonly has either a caramel sweet profile, or an earthy, savory-forward palate with some warm spice notes toward the end,” says Cruz. “It tends to be a full-bodied, tasty mezcal.”
Tepeztate (Agave Marmorata)
Among mezcal aficionados, tepeztate is recognized for being used to create extremely expressive and unique mezcals. It’s only found in the wild, which adds to its allure.
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Tepeztate has one of the longest maturation periods of any agave used for mezcal, often up to 25 years.
“This ‘dinosaur of agaves’ is a large, bright-green plant. Its core tends to be smaller than an espadín, but it is large, highly coveted, and characterized by huge leaves growing in erratic forms,” says Cruz.
Tepeztate is typically defined by a green and floral profile. Depending on where it’s grown and how it’s made, the species might express some ashy, sweet, and fruity notes. “Sometimes it has a blueberry yogurt flavor when pushed to malolactic fermentation,” says Reis.
Jabalí (Agave Convallis)
Jabalí is a perfect example of how small differences between agave species can prove dramatic during and after distillation. It’s smaller in size and bright green, with yellow stripes on its curved leaves. It takes 10 to 15 years to mature, usually grows in clusters, and is found mostly in the wild.
“This agave is notorious for being difficult to work with, due to its lower sugar content and high saponin content that makes foam during fermentation and distillation,” says Teran. Because of this, mezcal made from jabalí often requires three to four distillations, as opposed to two for most bottlings.
“This is one of the agaves that varies the most once distilled,” says Cruz. “Its profile can vary from floral and slightly sweet, to lactic with a present acidity, to a cooked agave, [with] dark floral notes, almost like licorice.”