Any connoisseur of great American hotels has likely visited Blackberry Farm in eastern Tennessee, or has it on their wish list—it is legendary as a paradisiacal vision of living well in the South, with bucolic grounds, famously delicious food and beverage program, miles of hiking trails in private woods adjacent to Great Smoky Mountains National Park, and a terrific cultural calendar with a strong focus on regional music stars. In 2019, the Blackberry dream doubled, when the Beall family, which operates the resort, opened Blackberry Mountain, a slightly more rough-and-tumble younger sibling to Farm perched in the foothills about 12 miles away. After years of yearning, I got a chance to visit both properties one week in August.
Jenny Bradburn, a trainer who works with the famous Lagotto Romagnolo truffle dogs who are bred on site at Blackberry Farm (and are one of the many kid-friendly attractions on the property), told me the resort’s Texas guests often call it the “gym of the South.” That’s definitely the way I approached it: I went on several solo hikes and one longer one with a guide; I went single-track mountain biking in the woods and road biking through the rolling farmland that surrounds Blackberry Farm. I rode a horse through the woods up to an old house that is widely believed to be haunted. I took a couple of movement classes. Plus, there was a sound bath, a ceramics class (they boxed up and mailed me my creations, which surprised me by not being terrible!), a sensational massage, and three spectacular meals a day. And to my surprise and complete delight, I got a chance to attend Emmylou Harris’s annual Emmylou and Friends weekend concert event at Blackberry Farm, with special guests Dave Matthews, Molly Tuttle, and Will Kimbrough, where the four musicians told tales and played some of the greatest tunes in the American songbook—both their own and songs by the Band, Townes Van Zandt, and more. What an unexpected treat!
Both Farm and Mountain are pretty casual places by day, as befits a pair of resorts that encourage you to get outside, move your body, and maybe get a little dirty. But it’s wise to pack something snappy for the evening—folks definitely dress for dinner. Seersucker is encouraged!
Where I stayed
I stayed in one of the Treehouses, one of the resort’s newer room products (there are also stone cottages, several flavors of fully equipped homes, and simple cabins up at the top of the mountain). I loved the sense of seclusion, the feeling of floating over the tree canopy, and the very sexy bathtub. A meal at the Fire Tower, built around a restored 1950s lookout tour with panoramic views, is essential while staying here.
As at Blackberry Mountain, there is a wide array of room types to choose from; mine was one of the Singing Brook cottages, tucked away in the woods not far from the kennels where the Lagotto Romagnolos are kept, which truly felt like a little Southern fairy tale. As at Mountain, you’re supplied with a golf cart which you can use to zip around the sprawling resort.
What I packed
Drake’s MK-I Games blazer
Gents, just pair this with a crisp button down, good chinos, and a pair of bucks, and you’ll be dressed for dinner.
Blundstone Original #510 chelsea boots
Yes, I am one of the hordes of Brooklynites who have adopted these durable, extremely comfortable, made-in-Tasmania boots as a staple of my off-duty wardrobe. Blackberry Farm is definitely Blundstone territory—they’ll serve you well for tromping across the grounds, riding a horse, and even hiking many of the trails.
Salomon Quest 4 Gore-Tex boots
But if you plan on doing some more technical hiking, like, say, up—and up and up—the ominously named Horse Slide Trail, these terrific Salomon boots will be your best friend. Probably the best hiking boots I’ve ever owned.
Rapha Classic jersey
I brought my entire cycling kit with me, and I was glad I did. Like a lot of style-conscious city riders, I am partial to the terrific London-based brand Rapha, but shout out to the Canadian company Velocio and the storied Italian manufacturer Castelli, both of which make bike apparel I love.
Adams Optimum hat
For a super affordable, highly comfortable, totally no-frills baseball cap, these six-panel cotton-twill hats are the absolute best in my book. An essential accessory at a place like Blackberry.
Paula’s Choice Skin Recovery SPF 30 moisterizer
I highly recommend using an SPF moisturizer every morning, whether you’re traveling or not, but at Blackberry, where you’re going to be spending a lot of time outdoors, this is an especially good call, no matter what time of year it is.
Elite Hotel by Emmylou Harris vinyl record
I started spinning this wonderful 1975 Emmylou album again after seeing her perform at Blackberry. Even if you’re not lucky enough to visit during an Emmylou and Friends weekend, it’ll put you in the right frame of mind. Actually, that’s true, no matter where you’re going, or even if you’re going nowhere at all. Just give it a listen—it’s a stone-cold classic.
