There’s Way More to Ibiza Than Nightclubs – How to Visit the Island’s Stunning Tranquil Side

Booking a last-minute flight from Los Angeles to Ibiza, Spain, just seven days after returning home from the island might just top the list of the most nonsensical things I’ve ever done. But after years of mistakenly writing off this little Balearic island as nothing more than a clubber’s paradise, I’d experienced firsthand that Ibiza had much more to offer — and a voice inside was urging me to return as quickly as possible. So I did.

My first visit to Ibiza took place in early June. (Spring is the ideal time to go — just before summer’s hordes of tourists and the inevitable heat wave arrive.) Looking down at the small Mediterranean island from 35,000 feet in the air, I was struck by its intense cerulean waters and myriad idyllic coves. I was eager to trade my layered airport attire for a bikini and dip my feet in the soft white sand.

I’d been skeptical of Ibiza’s appeal since I studied abroad in Barcelona nearly 20 years ago. When a few of my classmates had excitedly asked me to go on a weekend jaunt to Ibiza, my reply had been a resounding, “No, thanks!” The Ibiza I’d heard about, dubbed a party island, was where raves and revelry carried on until the wee hours of the morning. I preferred getting lost in narrow alleys and trying local mom-and-pop eateries over joining frenzied partygoers packed like sardines in dark, sweaty rooms.

But this trip taught me that long before Ibiza became a playground for big-name DJs and club-hoppers, it was a bohemian haven for artists and creatives. Ibicencos, or locals born on the White Isle — a lasting nickname coined over 100 years ago by a Catalan artist in reference to its limewashed architecture — are also quick to remind you that Ibiza has two distinct sides.

“Ibiza is a place where you can find whatever you want,” said Maria Sejas Balda, a local graphic artist who turned her passion for ceramics into a flourishing business. In 2004, a few years after the dot-com recession, Balda and her photographer husband left their home in Miami to search for a better life. They fell in love with a house on Es Cavallet beach and have lived on the island since. “We have a good quality of life here. If you want nature, you have beautiful beaches and the countryside. If you want parties, you have the best parties in the world.”

I visited Balda’s studio in Sant Francesc de s’Estany in the Ses Salines park, where mismatched mugs and imperfect, wabi-sabi–inspired bowls in muted tones and various shapes and sizes adorned the shelves. A flock of long-legged white flamingos balanced gracefully over the salt flats just outside the window, their skinny legs as delicate as the straight-edged handles of the handmade mugs before me.

The local chef community in Ibiza has caught wind of Balda’s creations, leading to multiple commissions. She’s since crafted one-of-a-kind tableware for many of the high-end restaurants on the island, including La Gaia, a Michelin-starred restaurant at the Ibiza Gran Hotel in Ibiza Town; Ibiza Food Studio, a food incubator and restaurant group; and Omakase by Walt, an excellent sushi bar. Ibiza’s culinary landscape is diverse for such a small destination. Restaurants ranging from casual beachside eateries to Michelin-rated fine-dining spots are scattered across the island, all sharing fresh, locally sourced produce and seafood as their common denominator.

Ibiza’s countryside has seen a surge in agroturismos, so I visited Cas Gasi, a bucolic 20-room hotel nestled in the hills. I pulled up a long dirt driveway surrounded by verdant farmland and 350 neatly lined olive groves. Just seven miles from Ibiza Town, I felt like I was in the middle of nowhere, swapping the steady thump of nightclubs for the soothing sound of birds chirping. I had found paradise.

I met with the owner, Margaret von Korff, who left the corporate world in Barcelona behind and moved to Ibiza with her husband in 1986. “Ibiza is very welcoming. There is a sense of freedom on the island that allows you to do whatever you feel good doing. I fell in love from day one,” said von Korff.

Originally built as a country house in 1880, Cas Gasi has been transformed into an organic farm and hotel. Almonds, figs, pine trees, citrus, and stone fruits all grow on the property using a regenerative no-till approach. Full-bodied Monastrell wine and organic cold-pressed olive oil are also made here and served at More, the property’s farm-to-table restaurant, where I enjoyed a salad of crisp, vivid greens and produce plucked fresh from the garden. “I have a desire to make people feel good,” von Korff told me. “I had no doubt what I wanted to offer our guests — the best quality of whatever there is.”

Having had this taste of rural bliss during my first encounter with Ibiza, after flying back exactly one week later for my second, I booked a room at Gatzara Suites Santa Gertrudis, a bohemian-chic hotel in Santa Gertrudis de Fruitera, a small town that’s home to mostly young families and cozy, homegrown restaurants. (Having learned the hard way that taxis and rideshare apps are limited on the island, this time I rented a car to get around.) Santa Gertrudis is dotted with cute boutiques and concept stores selling art and flowy garments, and bustling cafés serving green juice and bountiful salads. I spent my mornings at Wild Beets, a vegan café around the corner from the hotel, where locals and visitors lingered. The menu features cold-pressed juices, smoothies, and inventive plant-based dishes.

One sunny afternoon, a friend and I drove to Cala Gracioneta, a beach that came highly recommended by a few locals that we’d met. (Though, after a few days of beach-hopping, I was convinced it is impossible to find a mediocre beach in Ibiza.) Cala Gracioneta lies in a secluded cove near the bustling harbor town of Sant Antoni de Portmany on the island’s west coast, with calm waters shielded by jagged rocks. We laid our towels down and spent the next few hours soaking up the warm Mediterranean sun, then had a delicious farm-to-table lunch at the eponymous beachfront restaurant. Our plates were filled with salads, a medley of grilled vegetables, and fresh delicacies from the sea.

In that moment, I realized I had fallen in love with Ibiza. There is glitz, to be sure, but the island is also no-frills and approachable, somehow laid-back and lively at the same time. The two notably different sides of the island coexist harmoniously, yet feel distinct from one another. This is the beauty of Ibiza — there is something for everyone. And I cannot wait to go back.

Getting to Ibiza

There are no nonstop flights from the U.S. to Ibiza, so travelers from the East Coast generally transit through hubs like Barcelona and Madrid, followed by a one-hour flight to the island. Ibiza can also be reached by ferry directly from the port in Barcelona, an eight-hour trip. The island has a decent bus network in the summer, but you may want to rent a car to get around more easily if you’re planning more ambitious adventures.

Where to eat on Ibiza

Cala Gracioneta

A lively restaurant, Cala Gracioneta is situated on the picturesque beach of the same name. If you can get past the rocky cliffs, you’ll be rewarded with a secluded cove, turquoise waters, and a beachfront spot that serves Spanish classics — the arroz del mar is a must. 

Wild Beets

Grab a green juice or superfood smoothie to go or stay for a hearty, veggie-packed bowl at Wild Beets, a plant-based all-day café in Santa Gertrudis.

El Chiringuito

A high-energy beachside eatery, El Chiringuito offers an outdoor dining experience that’s popular with lunch crowds. The seafood-centric menu highlights Mediterranean flavors and ingredients, all elevated by live music and stunning views of Es Cavallet beach. 

La Plaza

The new signature restaurant at Six Senses Ibiza, La Plaza celebrates local seafood and produce (including from its own organic farm). Enjoy outdoor seating in a garden setting among 100-year-old olive trees. 

Ibiza Food Studio

This school, incubator, and fine-dining restaurant in Ibiza’s Old Town champions local purveyors and makers (like local ceramist Maria Sejas Balda). The tasting menu at its restaurant Taller Sa Penya is not to be missed.

Where to stay on Ibiza

Ibiza Gran Hotel

A five-star resort, Ibiza Gran Hotel features an impressive lineup of culinary hot spots including Zuma, Cipriani Ibiza, and the Michelin-starred La Gaia, plus a rotating art collection on display throughout the lobby and guest rooms. Rooms from $268

Cas Gasi

A quaint estate on a working organic farm, Cas Gasi has 20 cozy and rustic rooms, bespoke service, and lush gardens that invite guests to ease into the slow life — a serene escape from the island’s vibrant nightlife. Rooms from $465

Gatzara Suites Santa Gertrudis

This family-owned and -operated boutique hotel features 20 suites and an intimate rooftop terrace and pool. While Gatzara Suites Santa Gertrudis doesn’t have its own restaurant, it’s within steps of some of the town’s best eateries, including Finca La Plaza and Macao Café. Rooms from $307