So seductive is the beauty of quaint Savannah, Georgia, that General Sherman famously spared it from destruction at the end of his infamous march. Travelers have long adored the town for the mossy live oaks that arch over brick-lined streets, the comforting cuisine, the mix of gingerbread Victorians and stately Greek Revivals. But most visitors probably wouldn’t have called it hip, at least until lately. A flourishing creative community—much of it connected to the renowned Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD)—has ushered in a new current of cool marked by adventurous chefs melding global flavors with Low Country ingredients, chic hotels with swoon-worthy interiors, and art-filled neighborhoods that offer an alternative to the usual tourist destinations. Few places offer a more satisfying balance of the storied past and the thrilling future.
Savoy Society
Savannah has long been one of America’s great food towns. But recent openings have brought in more global flavors and laid-back spaces to complement the Southern classics and the traditional dining rooms. The intimate minimalist bar Late Air offers natural wine by the glass and bottle and a tight menu of small plates that have international flair, like olives dressed in the Yemenite hot sauce zhug, oysters with a shiso mignonette, and fluke crudo with kimchi paste. Downtown, in an industrial space warmed up with colorful vintage furnishings, Savoy Society (pictured) serves inventive cocktails, like the Roku, made with toasted rice matcha and ginger, as well as fun pub grub that ranges from a Korean meatball banh mi to a sweet potato slider with feta cream and harissa. A more refined option is Common Thread, inside a Victorian house on a residential street south of downtown, which turns familiar flavors on their head—see the yellowfin tuna topped with lemongrass and coconut milk, the sweet potatoes with salsa macha, and the Southern-style cacio e pepe with collard greens and squash. Not far away, in the Victorian district, Shuk is a counter-service spot dishing Mediterranean staples: Israeli salads, whipped feta with crushed pistachios and pomegranate honey, and pita stuffed with roasted butternut squash and grilled Halloumi cheese.
Ask the locals
Three Savannah natives share their tips for where to shop, connect with local history, and pick up art:
HANNAH E.
“For women’s clothing I love this small boutique. Hannah has a keen eye for great style and fabrics, and it resonates in her store. It’s a great place to drop into,” says McCarthy.
FIRST AFRICAN BAPTIST CHURCH
“This was the first permanent Black church in Savannah. They designed the church in a way that they could actually hide escaped slaves in there at night. So it became a stop on the Underground Railroad,” says Christie.
THE PARIS MARKET
“This is the dreamiest spot you can go to right now. It’s a home mercantile with amazing window installations, and they sell local art—it’s where I go when I want to be inspired,” says Lupacchino.
Where to stay in Savannah, Georgia
A once-ordinary hotel scene has taken off over the last few years thanks to these recent arrivals:
Hotel Bardo Savannah
This one-year-old, 149-room hotel occupies a stately 19th-century mansion on the edge of iconic Forsyth Park. The restaurant, Saint Bibiana, is one of the city’s top draws for its house-made pastas and stiff martinis.
Thompson Savannah
Long a popular daytime destination, the Savannah riverfront became a nighttime draw as well when this art-filled hotel opened three years ago. The neon-bathed lobby, adorned with fossils and other curiosities, is an experience unto itself. But locals love the Thompson for its restaurants, including Bar Julian, where diners watch the riverboats glide by.
The Drayton Hotel
For a taste of old Savannah, book one of the 50 dreamy rooms full of earth tones and vintage furniture at this petite six-year-old property. Located in one of the city’s oldest buildings, it feels like a full service bed-and-breakfast. Grab a drink at the moody Vinyl Room and hit St. Neo’s Brasserie for the raw bar and note-perfect fries.
Perry Lane Hotel
This 167-room hotel, with its eclectic retro decor and 3,600 artworks (including pieces by former SCAD students) immediately became the pulse of Savannah. Head up to Peregrin, the rooftop bar, for cocktails at sunset.
Savannah’s islands
Bucolic getaways abound in the marshlands just beyond Savannah’s city limits:
Annika Huett
Whitemarsh Island
Pretty, tranquil Whitemarsh is one of the closest places to get a quick dose of nature. The dense oak and palmetto forests of the island’s preserve are laced with biking and hiking trails so quiet that you won’t believe the city is just 15 minutes away.
Skidaway Island State Park
Trails on this slice of land along Georgia’s Intracoastal Waterway cut through maritime forest and past salt marshes, but the best way to see it all is from a boat. Moon River Kayak Tours leads expeditions where you’re likely to spot dolphins, crabs, raccoons, and egrets.
Wassaw Island
To visit Wassaw Island’s wildlife refuge, you’ll need to travel with a company like Sundial Charters, which offers boat tours that can accommodate up to six guests. It’s worth it for a chance to while away the afternoon on the pristine beach or follow the wooded trails, where you’re more likely to encounter a deer than another person.
Tybee Island
For a day in the sun, head to the soft white sand and expansive beaches on Tybee, where the waves are big enough to surf. (Rent a board from High Tide Surf Shop.) Locals love coming here to comb the shores for shark teeth or feast on a fried shrimp basket at the funky Deck, which has views of the sea.
