This Is One of Italy’s Best-kept Secrets — and It’s the Birthplace of the ‘Earliest Recorded Pasta’

We have mixed feelings writing about Pontremoli, the city our family has called home for 250 years. We are torn between keeping our well-kept secret and sharing it with others. But the food is too good and the culture too rich not to spread the word.

Pontremoli — situated in Lunigiana, a region at the intersection of northern Tuscany, Emilia Romagna, and Liguria — has a rich heritage dating back to the Middle Ages. Today, its historical significance is evident in its architectural landmarks, including the impressive Piagnaro Castle, the majestic Cathedral, and numerous palazzos.

Known as the “door of Tuscany,” Pontremoli has also been a vital center of trade for centuries. Visitors will find specialty products here, like PDO-status olive oil and chestnut honey, and restaurants focus on ingredients sourced exclusively from nearby producers.

With popular destinations like Milan, Florence, Pisa, Lucca, Parma, and the Italian Riviera all easily accessible by train or a short drive, Pontremoli is an ideal base for exploring the region. Here’s how to plan a memorable trip.

Where to Stay

Cà Del Moro Resort

Cà Del Moro is a tranquil retreat, with meadows of ancient olive, cypress, and chestnut trees. One side is bordered by the gently flowing Magra River and stunning views of the Apennine mountain range are visible from every angle. The property, only a 25-minute walk to the center of Pontremoli, houses 26 rooms, two restaurants, a pool, a golf course, and a wellness center. Breakfast is a highlight, featuring an array of fresh fruit, pastries, bread, cheeses, salamis, yogurt, jams, and local specialties, including plum crostata (pie) and chestnut honey.

Villa la Cartiera

Set in manicured gardens and tucked behind ornamental iron gates, this 1800s mansion is a short walk from Pontremoli’s center. Historically, its grounds hosted a paper mill and an ice factory, now repurposed as exhibition spaces. The villa has nine bedrooms, four bathrooms, a library, and lounges adorned with antique paintings and furnishings. The gardens are a tranquil place to relax, and there’s a unique pool fed by the Magra River. Despite its luxury offerings, Villa la Cartiera remains welcoming, with warm hospitality from owner Emanuele Del Signore and manager Marta Franciosi. 

Costa d’Orsola

Agriturismi, or farm stays, are popular in Europe, and Costa d’Orsola — nestled in the hills above Pontremoli — is a picturesque choice. In addition to captivating views of the Magra Valley and Apennine Mountains, the property offers 14 distinct rooms, a swimming pool, a tennis court, and olive groves. Dining here includes traditional local specialties, ensuring a delightful culinary experience.

La Casa Medievale

An unassuming door set on a narrow, winding street leading up to the Castello del Piagnaro hides La Casa Medievale, an ancient stone residence-turned-hotel. Inside, four spacious suites, each uniquely designed, span multiple levels and offer modern amenities. Another standout feature? The spa, which is set within a grotto created from the living rock of the Piagnaro hills.

Where to Eat

Osteria da Bussé 1930

Osteria da Bussé has been part of the town’s identity for more than 90 years, and it honors Pontremoli’s rich culinary heritage with a contemporary twist. The menu is a celebration of local flavors and ingredients, with meat and fish dishes showcasing the region’s bounty. You’ll find local river trout, tender duck breast, hearty oxtail, succulent lamb, and wild boar, each prepared with care and precision. The pasta, made from scratch, is a highlight, delicately flavored with ingredients like ricotta, sage, and parmesan. The ambience at here is understated and elegant, and the staff’s enthusiasm for the menu is genuine and infectious. Adding to its charm, Osteria da Bussé is known for crafting unique liquors, with regional flavors that include porcini mushrooms and aniseed.

La Caverna dei Nani

In the heart of Pontremoli, La Caverna dei Nani (or “Cave of the Dwarves”) is tucked in a charming, historic cellar that combines a rustic ambience with a passion for craft brewing. On warm days, dine outside in the lovely garden, which offers picturesque views of the Verde stream. Visitors are treated to an impressive selection of expertly brewed beers, each perfectly paired with hamburgers made from high-quality beef sourced from Tuscany’s Chiana Valley.

Pizzeria San Giorgio

Not far from the heart of Pontremoli, and adjacent to the Romanesque chapel of San Giorgio, lies a pizzeria that seems to appear as if by magic. Opened in 1983, it’s a cherished dining destination for both locals and travelers coming from all over Europe. The menu celebrates the region’s culinary heritage with dishes like testaroli with pesto sauce, veal with porcini mushrooms, fresh seafood, and 30 varieties of pizza baked in a wood-fired oven. In the summer, guests can dine in a flower-filled garden with a playground for children.

Trattoria Norina

Nestled in a centuries-old building along a narrow alleyway, Norina offers a quintessential trattoria experience that transports diners back in time. This hidden gem serves exquisite local cuisine that mirrors the changing seasons. With no printed menus or English spoken, the offerings change daily, ensuring each visit is a unique experience. The summer terrace offers a stunning view of the Magra River. Must-order dishes (that you can only find in Pontremoli) include patona, a traditional chestnut flour bread paired with creamy ricotta, tordelli, a type of ravioli individually stuffed with spinach and garnished with meat ragù, and torta d’erbe, a savory pie filled with herbs, greens, and vegetables.

Osteria Della Bietola

In Italian, osteria refers to a rustic establishment where excellent wine is served and accompanied by simple yet well-prepared dishes. These eateries emphasize quality ingredients and straightforward preparation, offering a warm, unpretentious dining experience. In Pontremoli, Osteria della Bietola exemplifies this tradition. Housed in a centuries-old building with stone arched ceilings, the space exudes a charm that makes you feel like you are dining with family at home. The atmosphere is reason enough to spend an evening here, though specialties like testaroli cacio e pepe and tagliatelle with white truffles seal the deal.

Caffè e Antica Pasticceria degli Svizzeri

This cafe in Pontremoli is a true emblem of tradition and taste. The sign outside, unchanged since 1925, invites visitors to try specialties like the classic spongata, a pastry filled with dried and candied fruits, cocoa, and spices, and amor, made of two crisp wafers and filled with cream. Other delights include almond cake, nougat with local honey, morning brioches, and chocolate pralines with marzipan and walnuts. A treat here — whether a cappuccino, an Aperol spritz, or a post-dinner gelato — is made even more special by the charming outdoor tables beneath Pontremoli’s illuminated bell tower.

What to See and Do

Visit Piagnaro Castle.

Take a scenic walk through the cobblestone streets to Piagnaro Castle, a well-preserved defensive fort from the year 1000. The castle is also home to the Museum of Lunigiana Stele Statues, featuring anthropomorphic sculptures of mysterious origin dating from the Copper Age to the Roman era.

Admire the Co-Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta.

In the heart of Pontremoli stands the Duomo, also known as the Co-Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. It was designed by Alessandro Capra of Cremona in the 17th century. Inside, you’ll find the town’s most sacred object — a wooden statue of the Madonna del Popolo, a 13th-century icon portrayed as a Black Madonna.

Check out Teatro della Rosa.

The stunning Teatro della Rosa, a performance art venue built by 25 noble families, is one of the most significant symbols of 18th-century Pontremoli, and it’s the oldest theater of its kind in the Apuan area.

Time your trip with Medievalis.

During the Medievalis festival in August, Pontremoli transforms into a medieval utopia. The city goes car-free for five days, allowing travelers, merchants, carriages, and knights to bring the Middle Ages back to life. In the evening, fire dancers, jesters, and musicians take to the streets with spectacular performances.

Get out in nature.

Visit one of the many small freshwater lakes that run through Pontremoli. These serene spots, often reached by a short trek, are surrounded by chestnut and willow trees. You can even take a refreshing dip on a warm day.

Explore the market.

Pontremoli’s outdoor market sets up in Piazza della Repubblica and Piazza del Duomo on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Stalls brim with local produce and other food, creating a colorful scene. You can find wheels of parmesan, jars of chestnut honey, dried porcini mushrooms, and more. It’s a perfect place to immerse yourself in the region’s flavors and take home a piece of Pontremoli.

Palazzo Dosi Magnavacca, a stunning Baroque residence in the historic center, was constructed between 1742 and 1749 at the behest of the Dosi family, a prominent lineage of Po Valley merchants who rose to the rank of marquises. The elegance and grandeur of its design reflect the wealth and influence of the Dosi family, and the palazzo remains a testament to their legacy.

How to Get There

If you are flying from the U.S., we recommend arriving at Milan Malpensa Airport. You can rent a car, drive to Pontremoli, or take a train from Milano Centrale. Trenitalia and Italo trains serve Pontremoli, and the station is within walking distance of the town center. If you’re traveling within Italy and Europe, the closest airports to Pontremoli are Pisa International Airport and Florence Airport, where car and rail services are also available.