Tibetan Culture Thrives in an Unlikely Corner of the Midwest

Bloomington offers an authentic taste of Tibet in the American heartland.

Just 15 minutes from downtown Bloomington, Indiana, prayer flags flutter in snowy woods, welcoming visitors to a Tibetan sanctuary far removed from the Midwest college town environment. Driving through the rolling hills of southern Indiana, I almost missed the turn. An hour from Indianapolis, the Tibetan Mongolian Buddhist Cultural Center (TMBCC) sits on a wooded property. The entrance is brightly colored, with prayer flags hanging between bare branches, their hues stark against the white landscape.

The rich scent of incense inside the temple transported me back to Nepal. Just months ago, I went to Everest Base Camp, where Tibetan Buddhism permeates daily life through monasteries, prayer wheels, and intricate chortens. In Indiana, thousands of miles away, the same delicate thangkas adorn the temple walls.

I joined a Sunday morning Buddhism class in the Kumbum Chamtse Ling Interfaith Temple—whose cornerstone was dedicated by the Dalai Lama in 1996 (and then consecrated by him in 2003). Twenty people sat in a semicircle around a monk while a phone live-streamed the teachings to an even wider audience. As the class concluded, one of the resident monks offered me a tour of the grounds, and I followed along.

My guide led me along part of the Kora meditation path, a 1.5-mile trail that winds through the property’s 108 acres of rolling meadows and forest. Along the way, we passed colorful prayer wheels and stopped by a lotus pond for meditation. The property also features four retreat cottages styled after traditional Mongolian gers for spiritual retreats.

The fact that the Dalai Lama has visited this small Midwest town is surprising enough news for most people, but the TMBCC was realizing a dream by Professor Thubten Norbu, the Dalai Lama’s elder brother. Arriving at Indiana University in 1965, Professor Norbu taught Tibetan courses for over two decades, but his influence extended far beyond academia. He transformed these 108 acres into a sanctuary for Tibetan culture, where ancient traditions could flourish in the American Midwest. Then, the Dalai Lama himself appointed Tibetan lama Arjia Rinpoche to direct the center. Under his guidance, the TMBCC continues to thrive, offering a rich schedule of events.

Back in Bloomington, Tibetan culture was still tangible. I visited Anyetsang’s Little Tibet, a restaurant that has become a cornerstone of Tibetan culture in the city. Prayer flags hung overhead on the shaded patio, reminiscent of the ones I’d seen earlier at the TMBCC. Outside the converted white house, a sign features a yak standing before Himalayan peaks, framed by flags representing the restaurant’s cultural influences: Tibet, India, Thailand, and the United States.

The restaurant’s current owner, Pema Wangchen, took over in 2012 after its founder retired. He fled Tibet as a refugee, spending over a decade as a Buddhist monk in India before finally arriving in America in 2003. When he heard about the opportunity to preserve one of America’s few Tibetan restaurants, he saw it as more than a business venture—a chance to keep Tibetan culture alive in Indiana.

Inside, the cozy atmosphere offers an education. Literature about Tibetan history and the cultural center lines the walls, and the menu features traditional Tibetan staples like momos (dumplings) and Tibetan tea. One bite of the freshly steamed momos made it clear why this spot has been a favorite for years, and it wasn’t long before I needed a refill of my Tibetan tea, too.

Although Bloomington has only a small population of Tibetans, their influence is felt throughout the city’s cultural fabric. Places like the TMBCC and Little Tibet create a unique bridge between ancient traditions and contemporary life in this Midwestern town.

Coming full circle from my trek to Everest Base Camp, I reflected on how Tibetan culture has taken root in southern Indiana. What began as Professor Norbu’s academic endeavor has become a cultural legacy. The TMBCC is not a static museum but an active space where cultural understanding deepens with every visitor.

For travelers seeking something unexpected, the Tibetan Mongolian Buddhist Cultural Center is a rare glimpse into Tibetan culture. Whether you’re drawn to the serene Kora path, the vibrant thangkas, or a plate of momos at Little Tibet, Bloomington offers an authentic taste of Tibet in the American heartland.