When Shopping for Rosé, Ask for Wines Made From This Grape

There are some people who say you can never judge a rosé by its color, but you won’t find those people in the south of France. In Provence, specifically along the Côte d’Azur, where pale pinks are best paired with tanned bodies, the shade of the wine is everything. There’s a reason why bottles of lightly blushing rosé, known to French winemakers as a blanc taché (which translates to a stained white), continue to get nods of approval from winemakers, wine writers, and wine lovers. 

But the secret is less about the hue and more about a lesser-known grape that’s responsible for both the coveted color and memorable finish: Rolle.

The powerhouse grape with Mediterranean roots

Mainly grown in the south of France and Corsica, this white grape is generally at its most expressive when grown anywhere near the Mediterranean coastline. 

Rolle tends to ripen later than other varieties, which means the fruit keeps its freshness and delivers a bright punch of citrus, pear, and even grassy, almost herbal notes in the glass. 

Although some winemakers use Rolle as a standalone grape to make dry white wine, (in Italy, it’s known as Vermentino), many Provençal rosé winemakers like Château D’Esclans, Chêne Bleu, and Château Rasque, consider it their secret weapon to blending an exquisite rosé. It’s often responsible for the round mouthfeel and subtly rich finesse you get from a truly balanced rosé.

 “In age-worthy cuvées, we use as much Rolle as is allowed in the blend [20%],” says Léa Rouyet, oenologist at Château Gassier. “It allows for extended ripening, adding structure and character suitable for barrel-aging while maintaining elegance. We are increasingly working with the co-fermentation of Rolle and Syrah, two grape varieties that complement each other beautifully. Fermented together, they enhance finesse and complexity, producing a bouquet of citrus, floral notes from Rolle, and red berry aromas from Syrah. Rolle brings volume to the palate, while Syrah provides structure, creating wines with impressive length. This co-fermentation also helps achieve pale rosé hues with delicate lychee-toned nuances.”

Kept under the radar

Winemakers and growers in Provence have become increasingly obsessed with this powerhouse grape, and yet it’s still relatively unknown to the larger public, likely because most wine drinkers know it better by Vermentino, its Italian name. Strict labeling regulations make it impossible to label Rolle as Vermentino when it is grown in France, and vice versa. 

“It’s a problem very often encountered by grape varieties that are called differently depending on which region or which country they are grown,” says Vincent Féron, sommelier, wine historian, and host of oenological dinners at Le Cordon Bleu Paris – Hôtel de la Marine. “For example, Malbec is called Côt in the Loire Valley, and Folle Blanche from Cognac is known as Gros Plan around Nantes. It makes it a bit confusing, but when you know about these secrets, you can find the links between all the different wines based on those specific grape varieties.” 

 Rolle has historically grown in Provence for decades, if not centuries, and despite having the same genetic origins, terroir plays a large role in how Italian and French versions express themselves in the bottle. 

“Italian Vermentino tends to have a richer, oilier texture with saline and herbal characteristics,” says Sébastien Ferrari, owner of Château Malherbe, a leading organic and biodynamic winery in the Provence region. “Whereas, Provençal Rolle stands out for its freshness, balance, and finesse.”

Chefs love Rolle for its gastronomic versatility, which is why many of the top rosés can pair so well with such a wide range of cuisines. Even non-pink-wine drinkers are easily converted to rosé when the grape is part of the wine’s blend. 

If a crisp, elegant, and expressive rosé is what you’re after, take a note from France’s top winemakers and pay attention to the shade of your rosé, but most importantly, to the percentage of Rolle in the bottle.