Produced by Federico De Cesare Viola. Profiles by Emanuele Gobbi, Ray Isle, Åsa Johansson, Giambattista Marchetto, Andrea Petrini and Flavia Rendina.
Visitors to either Sicily or Sardinia, Italy’s two great island destinations, don’t have to travel far once they arrive to find some of the country’s best wineries, and best vino-tourism options. In Sicily, there’s Mt. Etna in the east (wineries on an active volcano, why not?), which has over the past decade become one of Italy’s most exciting wine destinations; Marsala in the west, with its centuries-long history of great sweet wines; and Vittoria, known for its Nero D’Avola reds, in the south. But vines are grown nearly everywhere here.
Sardinia is less explored by wine travelers — though perhaps not by billionaires parking their mega-yachts along the Costa Smeralda in the summer — but no less compelling. The coastal regions here produce thrilling white wines from the Vermentino grape, and in the rustic inland areas, there are luscious reds, mostly from Cannonau (Grenache).
Either way, the best wineries on both islands offer stellar tasting experiences, do-not-miss restaurants focusing on local cuisine, and in some cases luxurious accommodations, as the 9 profiled here clearly show.
Donnafugata, Sicily
Sicily has more vineyard acreage than other other region in Italy save the Veneto and cultivates over seventy native grape varieties. A winemaking treasure Giacomo Rallo and his wife Gabriella Anca have made this agricultural diversity visible throughout the world through their winery Donnafugata, which they founded in 1983. In fact, Donnafugata today comprises five wineries across the island, all of which are expertly guided by Antonio and José Rallo, heirs and custodians of this family winemaking tradition.
The regions of Marsala and Contessa Entellina are home to the historic estates where Donnafugata began, but over time the Rallos expanded first to Pantelleria, where they produce the famous, sweet Ben Ryé Passito di Pantelleria, then to eastern Sicily, specifically Etna and Vittoria.
The Rallos have always shared their passion for wine with the public, opening their cellars first in the 1990s. Wine travelers have an abundance to choose from here. At the Randazzo estate on Etna, the “Brunch Etna” tour includes a walk among centenary vineyards on volcanic soil, a visit to the barrel cellar, and finally a tasting in the renovated tasting room accompanied by local specialities.
From May to October, head to Donnfugata’s Pantelleria estate. The “Zabib” visit allows travelers to walk among the vines, which grow in shallow pits in the ground to withstand the constant wind (this ancient viticultural method was part of why Pantelleria became a UNESCO world heritage site in 2014). They are also able to enter the winery’s beautiful Garden, and to taste different wines made from the local Zibbibo grape in different styles: Lighea, Kabir Moscato di Pantelleria, and Ben Ryé. Or do the “Ben Ryé Sotto Le Stelle” experience, with a nighttime winery tour, a tasting of seven different Donnafugata wines with dishes from the region, and a final toast in the vineyards under the stars.
Wine to try
Donnafugata Etna Rosso Fragore Contrada Montelaguardia
The volcanic soil and the centenary vineyards on the northern side of Mt. Etna produce this 100% Nerello Mascalese cru. It ages for 14 months in barrel and almost two years in the bottle before revealing itself with an intensely aromatic bouquet and vigorous flavors.
Catine Fina, Marsala, Sicily
Marsala in many ways needs no introduction. This Sicilian town is known throughout the world for its centuries-long viticultural and winemaking traditions, and specifically for its acclaimed fortified wines. So it was not at all an obvious choice for the Fina family to choose a different direction, and forego making traditional fortified Marsala.
The turning point for Bruno Fina, founder and winemaker of Cantine Fina, was meeting Giacomo Tachis, a legend in Italian winemaking. He worked with Tachis — the maestro, as Fina referred to him— for over twenty years, also naming the winery’s top red blend, “Caro Maestro,” in Tachis’ honor. In 2006, the Fina family also challenged local convention by planting Traminer here on Sicily. Three years later they bottled their Kikè white from those grapes, immediately winning a gold medal at the Concours Mondial de Brussels, one of the world’s most significant wine competitions. A glass of that wine, or of the family’s 100% Grillo Kebrilla is enough to understand what type of winemaker Bruno Fina is: a lover of balance.
Federica Fina, the youngest of Bruno’s three children, manages the winery’s hospitality program; Marco, the eldest, runs the business; and Sergio, the middle son, is the winemaker and right-hand man for his father). Federica typically meets guests and tells them the story of her father’s longtime relationship with Tachis before they head off to taste. The tastings and tours start from a small hill overlooking the Stagnone Nature Reserve (from which, on a clear day, you can see the Aegadian Islands).
Once upon a time there was nothing here, only bare land, until in 2005 the winery was built, and inaugurated in conjunction with the first harvest at Fina. Visits end on the winery rooftop, often at sunset, with wine and a selection of local, artisanal food products. The winery also hosts their Kebrillerà music-and-wine festival every summer; musical performers have included saxophonist Jimmy Sax and singer-songwriter Vinicio Capossela.
Wine to try
Cantine Fina Perricone
Where the sea meets the salt flats and the breeze crosses the Marsala countryside, the vineyards give a distinctive personality to this elegant, vivid red from the local Perricone variety, its red fruit touched with spice and herb notes.
Firriato, Catania, Sicily
It’s hard to precisely define why, but some visitors to Firriato inevitably leave a piece of their heart here. It is as though every footprint one makes remains indelibly printed into the Sicilian soil, and, at the same time, that Sicilian soil becomes a part of your personal history. There are few wineries in Sicily that are able to offer not just wines, but a real journey through the island; Firriato is one of them.
The Di Gaetano family took its first steps into winemaking in the beginning of the 1980s in the hilly province of Trapani. They expanded swiftly to maritime wines from the island of Favignana and mountain-grown ones in the shadow of Etna, and today own six estates, making more than 40 different wines. Through studies and experimental vineyards the family has worked to propagate varieties linked to Sicily’s agricultural history that now risk extinction; they’ve also studied at length the viability of ungrafted vines in different types of territory.
To dive into all this, there are three places for travelers to visit and experience wine among the vineyards. The 17th century Baglio Sorìa is a perfect example of typical western Sicilian architecture. Located on a hill, the estate overlooks the Trapani countryside; there are 16 beautiful rooms here and also Santagostino, an excellent restaurant helmed by chef Andrea Macca. The Cavanera Etnea Wine Resort leans towards the bio-architecture movement, with 21 rooms that exist in harmony with the greenery of the trees and the scent of local wild herbs. It’s an enchanting place, lying in the shadow of the volcano, where visitors can taste the company’s Etna wines. Finally, there’s Calamoni: seven suites on the central-southern side of the island of Favignana, on a strip of land dominated by the high promontory, with island wines from the estate that are rife with saline and mineral notes. Cooking classes exploring traditional Sicilian cuisine with chef Macca are also offered at both Baglio Sorìa and Cavanera (book in advance).
Wine to try
Firriato Etna Metodo Classico Brut Gaudensius Blanc de Noir
This classic method sparkling wine made from Nerello Mascalese grapes stands out for its very fine perlage, complex flavors, and distinctive elegance — a perfect union between vines growing in volcanic soil and the mountain climate that only Etna can offer.
Pietradolce, Etna, Sicily
In Sicily, old and new, ugly and beautiful, sea and mountains, all coexist in the same place. And for a remarkable experience in an incredibly evocative place, just climb the black slopes of Etna.
Looking up, when on the island, you will always find it, Etna, or Mungibeddu as the Sicilians call it. At almost 11,000’ altitude, it commands respect. It is also one of the most active volcanoes in the world, yet despite its plumes of smoke, it rarely does any harm. This is where Pietradolce is located, founded in 2005 by the Faro family, one of the pioneers of the wine renaissance on Etna.
At the beginning, Pietradolce wines were produced in a very simple cellar, but today you can admire the brand new one, modern but perfectly integrated with the volcanic landscape and designed following an eco-sustainable philosophy that allows significant energy savings. Natural materials such as volcanic rock, iron, wood and the soil of the vineyards themselves were used by artists and artisans to create works of art displayed between the barrels; a perfect harmony between wine and culture. Taking part in one of the wine tours offered here is an unforgettable experience: it starts with a walk through the vineyards, where the vines – some of which are more than 100 years old – also seem like true works of art.
The Faro family also runs a boutique hotel, Donna Carmela, at the foot of the volcano, near the port of Riposto. Arriving, you have the impression of entering a jungle: The lush greenery and flowers everywhere create an enchanting atmosphere, helped by the fact that the family has one of the largest exotic plant nurseries in Europe. Donna Carmela also offers great food and a wonderful pool and spa, ensuring a stay of pure relaxation and beauty.
Wine to try
Pietradolce Etna Rosso Barbagali
This sublime Etna Rosso comes from a very small, pre-phylloxera plot of vines over 100 years old. Balsamic, enveloping and pure: It’s a wine that brings the quintessence of Etna into the glass.
Planeta, Sicily
Today, the name Planeta is known throughout the wine world, far beyond the borders of Italy and Sicily. This historic winery, family owned for 17 generations, has created a global presence capable of attracting visitors from every corner of the planet. And with five estates spanning the entire island of Sicily — in Menfi, Etna, Capo Milazzo, Noto, and Vittoria — it can also offer a unique overview of the region.
Beyond the quality of its wines, Planeta is also a reference point for food and wine hospitality in the wine world, and carried a passion for it even when wine tourism in Italy was not so widespread. Travelers have multiple options, from the elegant wine resort La Foresteria in Menfi to the atmospheric Sciaranuova estate on Etna to the most recent arrival, the Insula Beach Club. The latter, a few miles from La Foresteria, lies next to a beach that’s been awarded the Blue Flag (a special recognition given to beaches and seaside resorts by the international, non-profit Foundation for Environmental Education) 28 times for its pristine, untouched beauty.
Beyond that, the Ulmo estate in Menfi and the Buonivini estate in Noto offer distinctive atmospheres and experiences, allowing visitors to explore different facets of the island. The Palazzo Planeta hotel, in the heart of the historic center of Palermo, offers an unparalleled stay; or spend a night in Casa Panitteri in Sambuca di Sicilia (2016 winner of the “Borgo dei Borghi,” basically the top Italian travel award for medieval towns) an “artist’s house” that effortlessly merges the historic and the modern. Wine tours in the estates of Menfi, Noto and Etna also offer varied tasting experiences and an in-depth overview of Planeta’s style and hospitality.
Wine to try
Planeta Metodo Classico Brut
This classic Etna sparkling wine, made with the same method as Champagne but from local Carricante grapes, makes you feel the presence of the volcano in the glass: salt, Mediterranean scrub, and a kind of “Alpine” freshness all co-exist in perfect balance.
Sella & Mosca, Sardinia
Sella & Mosca represents an important part of Sardinia’s regional wine history. Founded in 1899 by two Piedmontese entrepreneurs, the engineer Erminio Sella and the lawyer Edgardo Mosca, it’s currently owned by the Moretti family, whose holdings embrace three regions and six wineries, stretching from Franciacorta to this corner of Sardinia. Since its start, the winery was a pioneering enterprise, and it continues to be a role model for Sardinian wine. The winery currently owns 1,285 acres of vineyards (growing native grapes such as Vermentino, Torbato, Cannonau, and Carignano, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon), all farmed according to the exacting standards of Francesca Moretti and enologist and general manager Giovanni Pinna, and with great attention to environmental sustainability.
Sella & Mosca is also a pioneer in terms of wine tourism and hospitality. Visits and tastings allow guests to discover its wines and its magnificent estate, which in addition to both historic and modern cellars houses a small church dedicated to the Madonna dell’Uva; the buildings also border the archaeological area of Anghelu Ruju (for which the winery’s intense dessert wine — a true vino di meditazione — is named). Wine experiences are offered throughout the year by reservation, and are available in both Italian and English; the most in-depth of them is the Territory experience, which includes a visit to historic cellars and the Villamarina winery, a walk in the vineyards and a tasting of 4 wines accompanied by a platter of local products.
Additionally, 2024 saw the opening of Casa Villamarina, an ancient building brilliantly renovated by Valentina Moretti, creative director of More, the Moretti family’s sustainability-focused architectural studio. Located near the vineyards (and a short distance from the beautiful village of Alghero and the Sardinian coast), Casa Villamarina features 12 rooms furnished with materials and elements tied to the territory, from local wood to lively geometric designs worked in colorful, traditional threads. The experience of enjoying a breakfast of fresh, local products as you look out over the vineyard rows makes staying here an unforgettable experience.
Wine to try
Sella & Mosca Vermentino di Sardegna Cala Reale
Vermentino grapes grown on marine soils, together with cold maceration and élevage on fine lees, bring tropical and Mediterranean notes together in this fresh, savory white.
Su’Entu, Sardinia
To dine at one of the most interesting restaurants on Sardinia, tasting dishes that truly express its authentic, rural spirit — no passing gastronomic trends or clichés here — you must climb to the top of a hill in Marmilla, just outside the village of Sanluri. Here you will find the Su’Entu winery, surrounded by vineyards and constantly caressed by the wind, and within its walls the Arieddas restaurant. For it, Su’Entu local chef Francesco Vitale collaborates with Michelin-acclaimed Romagna chef Pier Giorgio Parini on food that draws on the bounty of the Sardinian countryside: from garden vegetables to cured meats and cheeses; local flours transformed into delicious breads like the traditional civraxiu; and dishes such as braided lorighittas pasta with a “farmyard” ragout.
Arieddas is only the most visible part of Su’Entu, a project born not only to enhance the reputation of local grape varieties like Bovale but also to promote the beautiful and little-known appellation of Marmilla. Founded by Salvatore Pilloni, Su’Entu is today run by his daughters Valeria and Roberta, but since its inception it has had a particular focus on hospitality and wine tourism. There are tastings of the Su’Entu wines, from white and rosé sparkling cuvées to elegant interpretations of Cannonau (including the new single-cru Terruas wines), but guests can also enjoy an aperitif at sunset, experience the Cantine Aperte or Le Stelle in Marmilla events, or enjoy evenings that host local chefs and artisans as well as other wineries on the island. There’s also a small inn with four rooms and breakfasts from the team at Arieddas, located right in front of Sanluri’s beautiful medieval castle.
Wine to try
Su’Entu Marmilla Rosso Su’Oltre
From a blend of red grapes grown in Marmilla, this is an elegant, juicy, savory red, in which dark fruit flavor meets spicy and balsamic herbal notes. It’s perfect for red meat — or an intense, aged Sardinian cheese.
Tasca di Almerita, Sicily
In Salina, when you look at the horizon, it’s difficult to tell where the sea ends and the sky begins—they blend into infinite shades of blue. The greenest of the seven Aeolian volcanic islands off the northern coast of Sicily, Salina is one of Italy’s most sought-out destinations, loved by those seeking luxury but who also wish to enjoy silence, wild nature, and the pristine sea. Since the Bronze Age islanders here have supported themselves by mining the black earth, fishing, making wine, and growing capers. But by the end of two world wars, the Aeolian islands were almost depopulated, and in the early 20th century phylloxera also destroyed local wine production.
Today that’s changed. Several well known producers have brought wine back to Salina, among them one of Sicily’s oldest producers, Tasca d’Almerita. The family has five estates on the island: on Etna, in Mozia, in Sclafani with the Regaleali estate, at Sallier de la Tour, an estate in Camporeale, and on Salina, where the Tasca family owns just over four hectares of Malvasia delle Lipari. Those vineyards grow inside their Capofaro resort, which opened in 2014. It’s perhaps the most fascinating example of Tasca hospitality. A walk in the vineyard here conveys the magic of this place: Below, steep cliffs fall directly into the crystalline waters, while in the background mountains rise, covered with green shrubs and caper plants.
The name Capofaro comes from the nearby lighthouse, once the center of what was a fishing village. Guests can stay in one of the elegant villas surrounded by bright pink bougainvillea flowers, relax in the spa, or borrow one of the scooters and take a ride down one of the only streets on Salina (there are three, total). The restaurant at Capofaro is led by chef Patrizia Di Benedetto, a reference figure in recent Sicilian gastronomic history, and her cuisine draws from Capofaro’s on-site vegetable garden. It’s worth noting that the restaurant also has a remarkable wine list, boasting one of the widest selections of Sicilian labels around (including, of course, cuvées from the estate itself).
Wine to try
Tenuta Capofaro Malvasia delle Lipari Salina
This white is the quintessence of Salina: sweet aromas of orange blossom flowers and honey, balanced by a saline freshness reminiscent of the sea. It’s a beautiful interpretation of the Aeolian terroir.
Tenuta di Fessina, Etna, Sicily
In 2007 Tuscan winemaker Silvia Maestrelli and her husband Roberto Silva visited Sicily’s Mt. Etna for the first time and immediately fell in love with it. From that, Tenuta di Fessina was born. Today their legacy is this jewel of a winery, located in Rovittello between two slopes on the north side of the volcano. The original vineyards here date back to 1809 and 1911, and were augmented by a purchase of land to the southwest in 2009, then to the east, in the Milo municipality, in 2012.
The Tenuta di Fessina wines seek a balance between the terroir of this active volcano and the influence of the sea. Visitors should also experience Maestrelli and Silva’s Casa Palmento wine resort and the experience of rural life it offers; in a sense, a way to discover the soul of Etna. The rooms in this renovated 17th century mill have both an ancient feel and contemporary comfort: Sicilian lace and decorated lava stone, burnished iron, and local art mix give a classic but not nostalgic flavor.
Even for those who do not stop for an overnight stay, it’s possible to take a tour of the mill, the hundred-year-old vineyards, and the historic barrel cellar, complemented by a tasting either of Etna DOC wines or of the company’s crus. (It’s also possible to do a vertical tasting of three vintages of Musmeci, Fessina’s top wine, a pure Nerello Mascalese from the oldest vineyards here). Want more? Book a four-hour cooking class with chef Marco D’Agati, in which guests discover local ingredients and the secrets of some of Sicily’s traditional recipes. You knead, mix, and cook, learning the routines of everyday Sicilian life as well as the gastronomic riches of Etna.
Wine to try
Tenuta di Fessina Etna Rosso Erse
Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio combine in this red to show the finesse and depth of the wines of Mt Etna. Think currants and blackberries, Mediterranean scrub, and spices in each mineral-inflected sip.