Think beyond the plantation when exploring Black history in the Palmetto State.
South Carolina is beautiful, but like many other places in the United States, particularly in the South, it has a complicated past. One of the easiest ways to learn about the history of the Magnolia State is through the Green Book of South Carolina. Compiled by the S.C. African American Heritage Commission, this guide mirrors The Negro Motorist Green Book created by postman Victor Green. While over four hundred sites across the state are waiting to be explored, here are five cities with notable stops.
African-American Monument at the SC State House, Columbia
Black history extends beyond the tragedies and traumas this community has endured. As such, it’s essential to acknowledge that their contributions (beyond forced labor) have benefited many industries and cities. While the monument chronologically recounts the experiences of Africans and Black Americans, it was erected to celebrate the Black history of South Carolinians from 1619 to the present day.
Although I wish the monument shared more details of specific persons and contributions, it is an excellent place to pause and reflect.
International African American Museum, Charleston
There are a lot of museums that give whitewashed or fragmented portions of the story of Africans and their enslavement. This museum does not shy away from the truth, particularly Charleston’s involvement in the Transatlantic Slave Trade. The city was the largest port of entry for enslaved Africans, with over 40% of all enslaved people arriving at Charleston Harbor. The curators use a mix of interactive exhibits, media, digital content, time-period artifacts, and art to educate guests on the history of African Americans from enslavement to the present day. The museum sits on Gadsden’s Wharf, the disembarkation point for enslaved Africans in North America.
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You can gain further insight into the slave trade and the plight of enslaved men, women, and children who came to South Carolina by visiting the Old Slave Mart Museum. Established in 1938, the museum is credited as the first museum on slavery history in the United States and the oldest African-American history museum in the city. Enslaved persons were brought to the mart as a holding spot until they were sold to a plantation owner.
Explore the Gullah Geechee Cultural Heritage Corridor
The Gullah Geechee Cultural Heritage Corridor honors the Gullah people’s history, culture, traditions, and foodways. It stretches from Pender County, North Carolina, to St. Johns County, Florida. The Gullah Geechee people are descendants of West and Central Africans who were enslaved and forced to labor on rice, cotton, and indigo plantations. They managed to preserve their traditions through arts, crafts, foodways, and the Creole language known as Gullah.
One of the best places in South Carolina to familiarize yourself with the culture is the Gullah Museum of Hilton Head Island. The museum houses roughly 500 artifacts, including migrant houses depicting the day-to-day life of the Gullah people.
Cheraw’s ‘Most Famous Son’
Although enslaved Africans continued to practice their native customs and traditions when allowed to in foreign lands, in New Orleans, for example, the Le Code Noir prohibited enslaved people from working on Sundays. As such, enslaved men, women, and children would gather in Congo Square to sing, dance, and fellowship. Because of this, New Orleans is the birthplace of jazz music.
As jazz music began to catch on and spread throughout other states, it caught the attention of John Birks “Dizzy” Gillespie, one of the greatest names in jazz music. Dizzy was a trumpeter, composer, and the founder of modern jazz music from Cheraw, South Carolina. In his career, Dizzy developed the sound of bebop alongside Charlie Parker and performed at the White House for eight Presidents.
The town erected a seven-foot bronze statue in Cheraw Town Green of Dizzy playing his bent horn on his 85th birthday. While his childhood home is no longer standing, its location has become The Dizzy Gillespie Home Site Park. Each October, Cheraw hosts The South Carolina Jazz Festival in honor of Dizzy and other legendary music artists with a jazz crawl, be-bop parade, and much more.
Dine at a Piece of History in Rock Hill
There’s nothing like a good place to eat, especially when traveling. You’ll find that at Kounter in downtown Rock Hill. (Do yourself a favor and order the fried ribs or drunken sausage). However, Kounter holds significant importance to the city of Rock Hill and its Black residents who fought for equality.
In 1961, nine students from Friendship Junior College joined a nationwide movement to stage sit-ins at segregated lunch counters. In Rock Hill, that sit-in occurred at Kounter, which used to be McCrory’s Five and Dime. After placing an order, the students were arrested and offered an option to pay $100 for bail or spend 30 days in jail. Choosing the latter sets an unprecedented example of courage and TK.
The “Jail, No Bail” exhibit is along the restaurant’s corridor. It features a collection of original newspaper articles, videos, and photographs that tell the story of the Friendship Nine, their sit-in, and the change it created. During your visit to Rock Hill, check out the newly installed African American Business District Monument. This monument, situated at the intersection of Black Street and Dave Lyle Boulevard in Downtown Rock Hill, honors the African American Business District, which served the community until its demolition in the 1970s.
